It's been a while but I'm back. Car has hit 320,000 and the track rod ends and steering rack have been advised as needing replacing. I'm really struggling splitting the U joint any pointers? I have given it a good blast with plus gas penetrating oil, the nut is out but it doesn't want to let go This is my first time doing a steering rack and track rod end replacement but apart from the limited access and this U it doesn't seem too bad
Wait a minute when you buy a remanufactured rack it's supposed to come with the tie rod ends all the way out to where they connect to the hubs they're only like 150 bucks complete .
The u-joint you're speaking of is down by your gas pedal foot or on floor are you undoing that joint outside of car or at the upper joint inside of car all nice n clean ? I think there are two ways to split it. Maybe easier to undo clean bolt .
Thanks for reply it's inside the car. I just can't seem to free the bar it grips in the lower part of that joint. I suppose I could take out the upper screw and try to take the whole thing out and free it off the car? Haynes just says free it 17.16b is where I'm stuck
IF it's that tite take a large flat head x driver tap into slot that the bolt pinches to hold then use a drift maybe brass to tap the splined hole down to ground. Usually up in the car behind that boot everything is clean you undo the gold bolt take the screwdriver tap into slot near bolt removed should slide down w minimal force
So I managed to get the bottom bolt out and split the rack from underneath. However I managed to reconnect the rack with the wheel slightly (about quarter turn so a fair bit) out of true. Now when I'm driving it goes into traction control mode and drops the speed to 10-20mph. Using the traction control off method will let it drive. Can I just pull the wheel off and replace it straight? I have a new clock spring and cruise control to go in anyway so need to get in there. I'll be sure to disconnect the 12v battery for the air bag and the high voltage too
THot they're a flat that kept everything straight . be that As it may. You should be able to do what you're talking about.
Thanks I'll try it. I've found a local garage that is a suspension specialist so if I go too far wrong can pay for the fix (ADAS Calibration and a wheel alignment, definitely will need the alignment as I just used a length of wood and eyeballed it so it needs the slight toe in)