07 here for actuator . I have a loaded 07 here that drives no codes brakes are perfect etc . If I move this actuator to the 07 I'm working on . Bleed manually no sir at bleeders anywer. Then plug up any of the scanners to bleed brakes . The bleed fails at first screen for bleed actuator removed. The car is stopped ign on acc or ready no matter. Park brake set. Autel AP tech and the GW scanner fail at same screen. Fronts squeeze up great no sir . Rears do nothing I've bled the line from master cylinder to the lil pump or stroke thing on passenger side no air I can now hear the rest brake pump beginning to clock . Wasn't before . The car scans a retrieves codes no issue 1364 5 are in play. Yesterday I also had low voltage code after charging 12V it seems ok and holding. If I put this actuator on original car which is rt here the brakes work perfect no codes at all . Other car has had no codes except low accumulator pressure no others . On original car it had a code for ripped out wheel sensor from accident. Cars still drives . Weird shiet. I'll wait a few days been in teens.
So now it's down to a constant 1364 no beeping and sub 222 which is press sensor not in value or such . . If input this actuator back on my car it came off of no codes stops on a dime perfect. Put that actuator on this same looking 07 car and this is happening . Originally it was 1365 accum pressure only. Looking at video. Of guy working on Lexus 400 V8 car it's out brake actuator turned on its side with a non locking slide plug . So a jumper harness plugs to actuator the locking white slide plug is on bottom of sub harness plugged to bottom of fusebox he is looking at a light purple wire I think he saying that's pressure sensor wire . But I no understand Arabic so I wonder if Lexus 400 actuator and sub harness could work on Prius . Wild. I can't imagine the skid control just went bad while I'm sitting in the driver's seat playing with car not moving driving etc . Weird . So the workup says actuator skid control ECU or wiring there were some wiring issues shielded wiring up on engine end were sliced but not cut . I cut a rejoined w scotch lol connectors I have the fine shielding intact . . With this wiring not spot on car would not go teady. As soon as reconnected the car boots and drives but 1364 222 remain .
If the actuator is good and it doesn't work when transplanted into another car that suggests the problem is there. Perhaps the brake lines to the rear are clogged, pinched, or something like that - anything that would block flow through them. That would surely screw up the brake bleed and would result in the rear brakes not working at all. So, maybe while the actuator is back in the original car detach one line at the drum and push fluid through it from the other end where the actuator would hook up? If this car is like most and it uses rubber hoses for the last foot or so of the brake line, maybe just put in new ones? The failure mode I hear about for those is usually that the brakes are applied but never release. Still, maybe they can break up inside such that they just won't pass fluid?
The pressure to rear brakes that pressure comes straight outside actuator ? Or that silver thing behind brake reservoir? After I dropped the rears twenty minutes I can hear something going on in rear like a pump starting to build pressure . there was some skinned wires up on the harness in the plastic crossing valve covers had to do with trans sensors wires repaired those trans codes went away and car started rt up . Runs drives and stops but not correctly 8 need figure out which ferrules go to rears and blow thru.
