guy in video says 10 years old, he said he paid $3K for it a decade ago but now its much cheaper. He says its made by CORNWELL and is a LOUNGE scanner in the video but I can't find it online and AI says its no longer made. I'm Just wondering if its better than my Autel's APMaxi200 OBD scanner (OR IF THERE IS A CURRENT BRAND/MODEL SUBSTITUTE WITH A SCREEN), and if I can pick up a great cheap scanner thats cheaper/better/equivalent to a Techstream setup (I don't have a laptop computer either)..... from this video approx 5:00 minutes in.... UPDATE: Looks like Autel makes a very close substitute that from 2024. however its around $500. Still wondering if there is any equivalent older cheaper substitute for Gen2 prii 2025 Autel MaxiCheck MX900 Full Bidirectional Scanner Tool Upgraded MK808BT PRO 2025 Autel MaxiCheck MX900 Full Bidirectional Scanner Tool Upgraded MK808BT PRO | eBay
What is it you're looking to do above the maxi ap200? I own a bunch of scanners . The older units sit. The newer updateable ota type units stay in service . The cheap stuff keeps getting more advanced. Just depends wer you need or want to be. Lounge is probably a bad call on launch. Butnonvsvanner pictured it looks like Xtool logo on bottom of it?
basically this video popped up in my feed and I watched it for any insight. I don't have techstream and wanted to know if there is a one-in-all alternative like pictured in the video.
I have the Launch CReader Elite 2 (The Toyota version) It does practically everything that techstream does and updates are free for life.
That scantool is the Launch X-431, it says "pad 2", but Launch has a few dozen (?) sub variants of X-431. If you want a "complete" budget scantool that covers all systems with bidirectional controls - good luck wading through all the ad copy. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Thanks for the replies. Autel is pretty great alone but in my opinion it sometimes is pretty obtuse and only gives codes after things start to get really bad. Such is the case regarding my brake actuator CODES popped up way after the problem started which made me me seek out alternative answers unnecessarily.
Yeah but if your brake problem creeped up and you didn't have any codes doesn't matter the brand of scanner. So I'm not sure how it crept up . Felt funny no lights or codes ,?
absolutely correct. creeped up. in fact I made a thread in May 2025 ("crazy brake problem I can't figure out"; basically brakes sometimes miss while driving slowly in reverse). I have driven since May 2025 without any noticeable legitimate/safety issue until the past month. @pasadena_commut made the comment below in May 2025, which is almost certainly what the issue was all along ABS/actuator. coincidentally the recent brake actuator issue (now in complete failure/no pressure) also recently started by having more frequent lack of braking ability going in reverse only AT FIRST, then gradually started slipping going forward (that, trust & believe, you WILL NOT forget because it is terrifying).... That said, the brakes shouldn't ever do that. It could be that the part of the ABS system which hold pressure has a leak, so after the car has sat for a while the expected stored pressure isn't there, it only comes back after the pump has run for a while.
So you're getting this to happen only in reverse so you driving in reverse just for fun or such . Or this just happens in the few seconds it takes to flip into reverse back up the car two car lengths go to apply brakes and keep going reverse? Or the car slows like a 60 model trunk w no brake booster no power but stopping
It started in 2025 May by brakes slipping on reverse while SLOWLY backing out of parking, etc. not really dangerous unless someone is walking behind you because it would eventually catch (that is pressure was slowly leaking while parked w/o power but as soon as actuator assimilator fills up sufficiently it stop). however since then its slowly gone down and almost exclusively only occurred while slowly reversing, UNTIL recently brakes went out and occurred going forward (driving is much more casual with speed obviously so even 25mph inability to stop suddenly became dangerous) NOW the braking is completely gone...there is code NOW that I can't remember but it basically says no pressure in actuator. you have to use the emergency brakes and pray basically to stop at all (thus I don't drive the car at all).
If pushing on the brake pedal has "no effect", then there are multiple problems with your car. Usually when you step on the brake pedal, all you're doing is telling the hybrid control ecu how much you want to slow down. The ecu decides how much regen (electrial) vs hydraulic (friction) braking to use. Your foot has NO direct connection to the wheels. The brake ecu uses valves to control high pressure fluid (from the pump and accumulator) to move the friction brakes at the wheels. The pump pushes a volume of fluid into the accumulator (a chamber with brake fluid on one side of a flexible diaphragm, and high pressure nitrogen on the other - it acts like a spring) at high pressure. Once the system uses that volume of fluid (pressure goes down too much), the pump turns on to "recharge" the accumulator. The brake pedal has position and pressure sensors to the ecu, and pushing on the pedal moves fluid into a small accumulator ("spring" chamber) to mimic the feel of regular brakes. Now a not uncommon failure with this system is that something inside the brake actuator leaks, allowing the high pressure fluid to return to the reservoir over time without the brakes being used. Normally this should only happen over an hour or more. As this gets worse, the pump has to cycle on more often, eventually getting to the point where it fails. The ecu SHOULD set fault codes before this time, but sometimes doesn't (or people keep erasing the codes, because the brakes "still work"). When the pump fails completely (or there is some other MAJOR fault with the system, then the brakes should revert to the final safety system. The brake master cylinder (& your foot) should now be directly (hydraulically) connected to the front brake calipers. No boost, no electronics (no ABS, Traction control etc), no rear brakes. Just stop the car - pull over to the side of the road and get a tow truck. If there is air trapped in certain parts of the brake actuator, then that final "direct connection" mode won't work. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
