Timing Mark Placement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by DashingPanda, Mar 14, 2026 at 3:15 PM.

  1. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    everyone.

    Long time lurker and reader. This forum has been great for me, but Im having some trouble moving forward atm.

    So, here is the story.

    P0012 and P0016 codes appear. I clean the camshaft position sensor and cleared codes. P0012 appears fixed but P0016 returns after 7 miles. I clean the crankshaft position sensor and clear. Code returns during the next trip. I replace with new crankshaft position sensor and code returns before going into drive.

    I went, knowingly, a lil too long on an oil change 9 to 10k. I honestly figured it would be okay just that once. I did 5 to 6k changes from 64k to 235k and did the head gasket and service the egr and intake every 50k. Did so a third time about 40k miles ago when I did the head gasket.

    So, my thinking is dirty oil or something and Im doing a second oil change I notice I dripping oil from the tensioner and dripping oil from filter. So...part of my thinking is that this could cause a oil pressure issue and that could be triggering the p0016 code maybe? Oh and a bought a new vvt solenoid since the code returned after cleaning that too.

    I ordered a spin on filter housing to install that was recommended in this forum since I still appeared to have a leak after updating to a metal cartridge housing from the OEM plastic. I believe I damaged the OEM housing by over torquing the filter by mistake and thats why it still leaks.

    So.

    P0016, leaking tensioner, leaking filter housing.

    I ended up having to remove the timing cover because when I attempted to release the tensioner after replacing the gasket--by turning the crank 10 degrees counter clockwise then clockwise--I didnt hear the release and it felt like the chain got stuck. I couldnt move forward without seeing the marks so I removed the timing cover.

    And low and behold! While removing my crank pulley I discovered its broken af. Now Im thinking whoa, this could have potentially caused my p0016 (crankshaft and camshaft correlation error).

    Parts bought to fix this. Crankshaft position sensor, vvt solenoid, Mahle timing cover and valve cover kits. Timing chain. Harmonic Balancer.

    Here's where Im at now. In order to get my marks on the chain to line up with sprocket marks, I have to pull the exhaust cam forward a little bit off the 12 o clock position the diagram shows. Now my crank is at its correct position with the key up at 12. I am unable to get the crank to line up by 1 tooth when I have the exhaust cam at 12. 1 or so works. Though this leaves me with a slight issue of concern.

    That issue is whenever I bump the chain wrong or swing arm the cam jumps back to 12 taking me off mark.

    Now, I ran into this issue before with my head gasket job and I honestly cant remember 40k miles ago if I sent it like that and was just careful af not to bump the wrong thing.

    I did learn to use wire though this time, wrapping it behind the swing arm and tightened on the chain near the intake cam, to hold tension so that I dont slack at the crank and risk jumping a tooth there.

    Also pictured is my new crank pulley and old one.

    Do you guys think Im g2g? Is there something I am missing or need to be made aware of?

    The images displayed are as I currently have it set up. Hoping its ready to replace o rings and gaskets and reassemble and Ive covered all the bases I need to clear my p0016 and take this baby to 300k.

    Thank you
     

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  2. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    Oh here is the imagine showing the broken part of the dampener. 20260313_110007.jpg
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Odd way for the dampener (aka “harmonic balancer”, and more succinctly “pulley”) to break. Was the hold-down nut maybe torqued with an air wrench. There’s nothing on it, no belt, it’s just along for the ride
     
  4. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    Well, tbh embarrassingly enough, I never torqued it down when I did the Head Gasket. No one said how to in any video or showed to in any of the HG videos I saw and some how I didnt think to until I found the crank pulley bolt loose when I went to release the tensioner.

    I didnt know to torque it with an impact wrench because you cant buy a pully lock.

    Tbh torquing it with an impact scares the piss out of me. Im a total amateur.
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    A lot of DIY’rs sans a restraining device for the pulley hit it with an impact, relying on inertia to spin the nut down fast, before the pulley can start to rotate.
     
  6. Wtfdustinwtf

    Wtfdustinwtf Junior Member

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    So when putting the pulley back on you'd need to retarain it with a tool then hand crank it down?
     
  7. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    He is saying you dont need to restrain when using an impact. I heard two sudden impact sounds should be enough with a decent enough impact.

    What Im worried about in my post is whether it is okay or not to pull the exhaust cam forward to line up the marks. My exhaust cam mark is a few degrees to the right of where it is listed on the diagram I posted. Everything appears TDC. Im using garden steaks to see it.
     
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  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  9. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    buy a torque stick that’s rated at 140ft lbs, use an air impact gun with it and you won’t ever over torque the crank bolt since the torque stick will stop torquing at 140ft lbs. that’s what I would do. I zap mine without a torque stick a few times and it’s fine, but that’s me knowing my tools. But the next time I’m doing it, I’ll be using the torque stick.
     
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  10. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    Do you mind telling me if my timing is okay? I had to pull the exhaust cam forward a little bit. If its good Im ready to gasket and reassemble. Thanks. I love your videos. Youve been a huge help.
     

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  11. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Looks good.

     
  12. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    look on the crank pulley, there should be a yellow dot, it should line up to the number 0 to the right of it,I showed it in the video part 3 at 29:30. If all those line up, then your timing mark is good to go.
     
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  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Normally all the slack should be on the left side where the tensioner will be released. The opposite side should be reasonably tight to ensure the timing marks remain aligned.
     
  14. DashingPanda

    DashingPanda Junior Member

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    I have wire keeping tension while I put the cover back on.
     
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    That is what this guy does around 20:00 and then removes it around 33:00 to avoid a tooth jump on the crank. He also goes over the sealant application and orings in between.

     
    #15 rjparker, Mar 17, 2026 at 8:57 PM
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2026 at 9:53 PM
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Where is the wire?

    I see an unexpected amount of chain slack piled up just above the crank sprocket on the forward side.

    Also, once that slack has been moved over to the tensioner side where it belongs, the exhaust cam sprocket mark will probably point closer to the 12 o'clock you expect.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Googling:

    "how accurate are torque sticks"

    The AI summary is somewhat mixed. One thing I noticed, just with a quick read, they tend to work better with air impacts than electric.

    I guess another question would be "how crucial is accurate torque for the 3rd gen's beltless pulley".

    FWIW, this is the part no for the Toyota restraining device:

    upload_2026-3-17_18-23-6.png

    The first one (09213-58014) I searched for, it seems to range between $60~100 USD. No way I would buy it, but it's interesting to see how it works, and perhaps a home-brew version could be cobbled. There's 4 threaded holes on the pulley, I forget the spec, but it's the same as the threaded holes for jacking the brake disks off the hub.
     
  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The video above shows the technique
     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I was particularly interested in where, exactly, DashingPanda had put the wire, such that the odd amount of slack resulted on the forward side of the crank sprocket.
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I've had, for about a gazillion years, a very generic thing-holding tool that looks about exactly like this:

    [​IMG]

    Put a couple bolts into those holes in the pulley, stick the arms of this thing over the bolts (notice which way to stick it so it will hold in the direction you're going to turn) and brace it against something, and Bob's your uncle.

    Plus you sort of never stop discovering things you can hold with such a thing-holding tool.
     
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