Seafoam full can in the tank, now runs bad. Can this be fixed. how?

Define weird.

 

That'll fix it?

 

How many gallons was it mixed in with/how full was tank? How many gallons have you added and how many miles since whatever "weird" means started?

Also when was last time you replaced plugs and cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor?

 

How does a scanner show a catalytic problem but no code???

 

If you've already driven 200 miles you have plenty of room to add more fuel and dilute the sea foam... And yes the catalytic problems are indicating that you got bad gas that's not combusting normally. Hopefully you put the seafoam in first so it mixed well? Also, maybe you bought a bad tank of gas at same time you put Seafoam in?

 

Waiting for the picture.

 

My condolences if it is one of their lithium packs. Do some research on this site so you know what is in your future.

Code:

site:https://priuschat.com/ Nexcell Lithium

 

What brand and model number of scanner are you using?

Most scanners are not capable of reading all the trouble codes that a Prius can have. Read post #1 and post #37 in this thread, https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3246758

 

Well you have done better than most. It is most like very quickly coming up to EoL.

You still haven't stated in what way your car was behaving 'weird', unless you mean this:

That is quite normal if the battery ECU detects that the voltage is above its 80% threshold. It will run the engine to lower the voltage down to where it is happier with it.

 

You must have an early version of NexPower's lithium hybrid battery.

Can you use the Dr Prius app to check the hybrid battery data and to check for hybrid battery trouble codes?

On the dashboard, are any warning lights tuned on?

EDIT: Based on this thread that you created, https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3265366, you ordered the lithium hybrid battery in July of 2022. That makes you battery less than 4 years old.

 

That's a picture of the readiness display for the various monitors (self-tests). Looks like the only ones showing ready are the continuous ones like misfire and fuel. The ones that depend on tests the car occasionally runs are showing not ready.

One time you'll always see that is when someone has recently done a code clear. In addition to clearing codes, that also resets all the noncontinuous monitors to not-ready, and they only come back to ready one by one as you drive around for a while and the different self-tests get run.

(That's one reason not to have too itchy a trigger finger on the code-clear button if there is an inspection coming up soon, because the inspector will send you home if you show up with the self-test monitors not ready.)

 

The cat can take a while to come up to temperature to be "Ready" if the ICE isn't running continuously. Drive it on the highway for 10 minutes and check again. The O2S (O2 Sensor) might also take a while. Ditto for Evap.

 

The various self-tests have their own various schedules for when they run.

EVAP is an extra-special one, because it's not even one that runs while you're driving. It runs five hours after you park and shut the car off (sometimes longer depending on temperatures).

There are also dependencies between the tests. For example, the catalytic converter self-test cannot be run until after the air-fuel ratio sensor test and the heated oxygen sensor test have run.

Generally they'll all manage to get back to completed status eventually if you just keep making normal use of the car over a week or so.

If time is pressing, you can start looking up the "confirmation driving patterns" in the repair manual for the ones that haven't completed yet.