I now have both the EV mode switch and and Engine Block Heater installed. So, given that my engine is a little warm before starting, and I can control when the ICE comes on, how can I do this for best fuel efficiency. In other words, when is the best time to turn on the gas engine? My commute starts with 1/4 mostly downhill, a stop light, an 1/2 mile of 35 MPH, 1/4 mile of 45 MPH, and then to 55 MPH for several miles. My hypermile route is almost the same except I do not go over 45 MPH. So, when to kick it into S1 (or will it bypass S1 with the EBH? -- I don't thnk so)? I don't want the engine to cool down, and I assume I want S1 mode to be happening while I am using ICE power, right.
You're at a big advantage with the downhill 1/4 mile and you should allow the ICE to start normally and complete S1 as you glide down the hill. Do not use the EV button for that initial phase, you want to go through S1 with as little load as possible on the ICE and HV battery and that long downhill is the perfect way to accomplish that. When you get to the stop light, unless you can time it so that you can roll right through it, keep your foot firmly on the brake until the ICE shuts off on it's own. If you're warm enough you'll be right into S4. I don't see anywhere in the route you described where I'd use the EV button at all.
I agree with Evan. Particularly on this point: You want the engine to warm up while it is under minimal load. The downhill is a great time for that.
My 1st couple hundred feet out of the driveway is actually flat. So I could use the EV switch till I get to the downhill part. Thanks for the replies.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Doc Willie @ Oct 15 2007, 02:38 PM) [snapback]525962[/snapback]</div> I know you're just itching to use that EV button...I understand, I've been there, I've done that, it's fun as hell. But the answer is "NO"...let the car start, drive normally...you can use that extra couple hundred feet to assure that your ICE temp reaches and stays above 150 so that when you hit that first stop light your chances of going into S4 are very good. Just go easy on the flats. If you have a scan gauge--and you should--keep the ICE rpm around 1275 and a nice gently build up of momentum to your hill, then just coast down the hill allowing it to regen a little while the ICE does it's business.
Or, to put it in terms you'll understand: It's just not safe to go into warp while you're still in orbit. Furthermore, it's common courtesy not to engage stealth in your home system. Use 1/4 impulse power to get away from the port, and use inertia to get yourself to a safe distance before engaging stealth or warp drive. If you can make use of a gravitational assist and slingshot for added speed, that's ideal. Once you've reached the neutral zone, engage intertial dampers, and then your magnetic field coils should be ready to give you warp speed. The use of stealth IS advisable in the neutral zone.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ichabod @ Oct 15 2007, 01:48 PM) [snapback]525969[/snapback]</div> The fact that you can re-write the previous post to yours in that language and have it mean something is scary. What's worse is, I UNDERSTAND IT COMPLETELY, and I don't even watch the show that much!
Of course, Doc Willie can tell you that I took liberties to squeeze in the terms "neutral zone" and "inertial dampers," since there weren't really analogous terms in the previous posts. ... Unless we can all agree on "interstate == neutral zone" since warp-stealth is the norm there, and there is an abundance of enemy ships. The closest thing we have to intertial dampers is probably the airbag, and you don't want that to engage most of the time!
intertial dampers = car suspension + your legs holding your nice person to the chair while making a 25mph turn at 55mph. neutral zone = when you can shift into neutral to reduce ambient energy consumption under 41mph.
