I didn't know it would work if the car was not on- As it stands, someone could break the window and get into my house... Is there a way to disable it?
If you never program it in the first place, then the burgler will have smashed your car window for nothing. :madgrin:
It's an unfortunate fact of life. The opener - er, homelink, is setup to work whether nor not the car is on. This is done because many people park their car inside the garage and if they had to start the car to open the garage door, there will be danger of asphyxiation (CO poisoning). On another front, most people who have automatic garage doors and not a homelink, keep the opener inside the car. The are faced with the same paradox as you, Triumph1.
Another unfortunate fact is that garages are generally easy to break into, even without door openers. Unless you have an exceptional garage, don't expect it to be Fort Knox. Tom
Easy. Rewire the constant 12v to switched 12v. There are two power wires that come with the homelink/auto-dimming mirror. The auto-dimming one is supposed to connect to the switched 12v, while the homelink one to the constant 12v. You can tie them together and connect both to the switched 12v. That way, the ACC needs to be on before your homelink works (much like auto-dimming - which does not work while sitting in garage!)
I don't think the 5 seconds of running with the door closed would really make a difference (and you could likely get the door open before S1 even starts).
Yes. If you disconnect the 12V auxiliary battery, then reconnect, there's no need to reprogram the Homelink.
wouldn't the burglar have to be inside your garage to smash your car's window? which... if it has the garage door programmed, would make sense to park... inside... the garage?
No matter if the clicker is on the visor or if the Homelink is programmed, if the car is parked outside and somebody breaks the window, they can open the garage door The best way to secure your garage door at night is to use the Lock feature on the interior garage operator. The basic operator has a single button, which is no help to you The optional operator has a large button to open/close the door, and two smaller buttons: one button is to lock the opener, the other button is used to manually turn the opener light on and off My 3 button interior operator is pretty basic. This one at Chamberlain is fancy 398LM - Smart Control Panel® You press and hold the Lock button for 5 secs or so, and the LED on the operator and on the obstruction sensor both start rapidly flashing. The opener will now ignore all remotes assigned to it
Thanks for the suggestions- My car stays outside, the Motorcycles stay inside. My priorities are in place, no doubt.
I don't have a three button remote- I think I have a manual lock on the door itself that goes through the frame. I may look into getting it rewired.
If you have a Chamberlain opener with the orange programming button, you don't have to rewire anything. The same two wires are used for the three button opener control. My Chamberlain came with the basic lighted button. I picked up the three button (Includes lock button and manual light button) for $30, it just hooks up to the same two wires You have to get polarity correct. If the wires are reversed, the LED on the control doesn't work. Flip the wires around and the LED will work. It will rapidly blink to indicate that all remotes are locked out So even if the car is parked outside, and somebody breaks the side window to get the clicker on the visor or the Homelink, nothing will happen. The opener lamp will flash 4 times or so, indicating it received the remote request but is ignoring it
