'08 Door Ajar light won't go off; kills battery overnight unless on charger

So this is the red door ajar light on the dashboard? If the car was in a wreck how bad is the wreck the hat still opens and closes apparently with the button so or was that another car not this car no this car was in a wreck. So you replace the door push pins behind the rubber covers usually they don't go bad to be honest about it but do you have 12 volts at the wire plug to the other end of the sensor and if not which one of the doors do you have the 12 volts going to that's not closing all the way or something along those lines I wouldn't think of body control module would be bad and just putting the lights on do you have any codes have you read any dtcs through the OBD2 port? I realize this is killing your battery what you could do until you get this straightened out is just leave that little plastic door above the battery in the back so you can pull the positive terminal every night. Then lay a piece of cardboard where the latch is on the rear hatch set the hatch down everything looks like it's closed nobody can tell them unless they physically come and pull on things then when you come out in the morning you just drop the terminal on the battery move the cardboard open the door start the car a little inconvenient everything starts at zero and all that again but you know where you are in gas and if it's near two or three bars you're going to be getting gas shortly just until you get it sorted something is amiss but I wouldn't think it would be a complete module although it could be it seems something is out of alignment maybe from the accident so then if the interior lights are set to door position those stay on when you get out of the car? Along with the red light on the dashboard indicating that the doors open?

 

The way the door sensors work is that one side of the switch is tied to ground and the other to a line which is floating at 12V and comes from the control module. When the switch closes that line goes from 12V to 0V, and more to the point, the current through it goes from 0 to 300 mA. A 300 mA parasitic draw will kill the 12V in very short order. For reasons lost in translation Toyota calls these "door courtesy switches" for the 4 doors and "luggage compartment courtesy switch" for the hatch. Looking at the wiring diagram each of these sense lines seems to go to its own driver/sensor in the control module. That is, they are not all logically "OR'd" together into a single control line, so a short at one switch should not effect the voltages seen at the others.

If the OP can obtain a working copy of Techstream with a MiniVCI cable, or probably the Autel AP200, looking at the data for the body control module will should show the open/closed state for each door. (Actually for the courtesy switch.) I have not verified this myself. Otherwise, pull each switch out and check the voltages on the sensing line with the switch open or closed. For the hatch switch obtain a carabiner or similar object about 2" long and 1" wide, ie, roughly the same shape as the metal loop on the bottom of the hatch, and one can trigger the latch without actually closing the hatch. To release it push the rubber button on the hatch.

Since the vehicle is said to have sustained rear end damage the most likely problem is that the sense wire for the "luggage compartment courtesy switch" is shorted to ground.

Edit: 300 mA, not 500 mA.