Car was parked for 3 hours then went to start car was dead Replaced blown fuse next to battery and replaced Dome fuse all other fuses ok under the bonnet and under the dash. Currently Dome light works Hazards lights works Break lights dont work Clock never comes on MFD doesn't come on Boot wont unlock Only light on dash that comes on with start is engine check light no speedo etc Tried to scan codes obd port also has no power Any suggestions welcome Thanks David
Had a similar anomaly recently. I cycled through turning car off and on in different sequences, as well as plug in and remove fob a bunch of times to get everything back to normal. You can also try disconnecting the 12v battery for a few minutes to reset everything... Also if possible fully charge the 12v before doing this. Then starting checking fuses...
sounds like another fuse somewhere, there are too many scattered throughout the vehicle. what does the jump point measure?
Thinking outside the box: could it have been hit by a lightning strike? Back inside the box: massive inverter failure....
I would look in the wiring diagram (more info), particularly at the Power Source section, noting which things in the car do and do not have power, and concentrate on the things in the diagram (fuses, relays, etc.) that separate the stuff that works from the stuff that doesn't.
We have had similar situations usually it is the inverter coolant pump but last time we had power inside the car but no start it was the coolant control valve. I would bet money it is either 1 of the 2. Am pretty sure our mechanic can change those parts in about 10 to 15 minutes.
I forgot to mention I replaced all the relays under the bonnet, yes I'm trying to get my hands on the full wiring diagram to trace a common point of failure
Nah was parked next to house on fine day when it failed, a dead inverter would not cause loss of 12v on some circuits
I can hardly ever recommend proceeding that way. Did you at least make sure to test each new relay before putting it in? Did you test the relays you took out? Generally, tracking down the unknowns in the situation you've been presented with stays easier if you change as few things about it as possible, and one at a time, especially avoiding adding more unknowns. Even just removing a good relay and putting another good relay in its place can add a complication, if the contacts in the relay socket are iffy. The link in my earlier post is to a page that Elektroingenieur helpfully compiled showing the ways of getting access to the manuals and diagrams for most locations. I haven't checked that it specifically has the right info for NZ, but I know it aims to be complete.
If you have 12v at the underhood jump point, the next area of distribution is the fusible link directly below the underhood jump point. Look through the clear plastic cover to see if any of the links are melted. A reverse polarity connection at the 12v battery normally smokes the main one in the upper driver side corner of the link assembly. If that is all good, Power Source ECU?
These cars don't have weird/uncommon issues. They all break the exact same way without any surprises with the exact same fix in the rare case it breaks. If the brakes are beeping and u have abs/vsc/brake it's the abs pump. If you have a red triangle and scanner says "replace hybrid battery" it's the hybrid battery. Etc. Since you said it's not the inverter pump I would wager it's the coolant control valve. The only other time I got this issue (good 12V but car won't start) and it wasn't the pump or valve --- I simply went into the trunk and unplugged the plug that is next to the 12V battery and the negative ground...waited 1 minute and problem magically went away and car started...That was years ago. I've had the no start / good 12V issue about 10 times....8 times it was pump, 1 time (just happened couple weeks ago) it was coolant valve, 1 time I just unplugged that kill switch / safety switch (?) that is next to 12V. Almost every time it is the inverter pump.
