hi? i heard noise like metal touching the rotor. i removed the left wheel, remove caliper, check rotor, when it is time to put the caliper back on , the piston has moved forward and i am not able to put the caliper back on. i heard to use a c-clamp to push the cylinder piston back and then installed the caliper. after that, now i have the lights and when i drive the car, when i stop the car at high speed, the car will stop but i hear wheel drag forward before coming to a stop. it was the left wheel that i removed. what could have cause the caliper cylinder piston to move forward or out without the pedal press. the brake fluid is at the max line. there is no engine light. all brake light are working pls share your wisdom. has anyone experience this?
above i mentioned of the noise, i was hearing. i will hearing this noise while driving but when i step on the brake the noise will stop. it's like some metal touching the rotors noise.
Well first of all do the brake pads look normal they're not down to metal backing plates they're still material to stop with What about the other side If you are near your car with the remote in your pocket and you have the brakes apart that's very foolish The remote should be 20 ft away from the car or something better than that so that nothing comes alive while you're working on the car that will move the Pistons and all kinds of silliness because your brake is predominantly electric so that's basically what happened so now with these cars you want to get a big pair of channel locks hold the caliper in the piston take the 10 mm or 8 mm wrench whichever fits open the fitting for bleeding the brakes on the caliper while squeezing now the caliper will close and the fluid will squirt out on the ground when the caliper closes tighten up the screw you loosen to make the fluid come out now the caliper will slide back over the pads but you want to make sure the pads actually have material on them at least a quarter of an inch thick evenly across the pad if it's worn at an angle or any funny business get a set of new pads You're already halfway there any scraping or metal business should be evident by looking at both sides of the front end of the car usually it's front so that'll be scraping they can happen in the back would it takes a long time and if you're in a generation too you may be at that time 200 plus thousand this is why people take their car to mechanics that do of this kind of stuff kind of on the daily .. they would know not to have the remote or not to have the car live or to take a battery terminal loose while they're fiddle farting around because if they don't this is what happens
i admitted to having the car key near by. i have learn my lesson. the brake pad have lot of life and thick. about 80% thick. from you input, you advised that i disconnect battery, keep key away, open the brake caliper, use a clamp to hold piston in and unscrew the bleeding and nut to allow oil to flow out. should i pump the bread pedal to push out more oil or should i not do so? brake wear appear even. it was the metal clip, that the brake pad sit , that was touching the rotor and causing the noise.
Update, i pushed back both caliper with the bleeding cap open. put back everything, reset the brake, abs with the jumper wire on the obd plug in. the noise /grinding on the passenger side is gone but the noise is till coming from the driver side. this noise only happen when the car is moving and when i press the brake pedal the noise stops. i noticed that the rotors doesn't have a screw. they just sit there. on the rotor there are holes but no holes on the wheel hub to thread a bolt. all dash lights gone. brake stops fine. no wheel drag.
