Bought a week ago a 2011 Prius with 72,198 miles which hasn't started/operated by previous owner in over 3 months. Story goes car ran-shut off at night and wouldn't start next morning. Owner did not want to pay to have car diagnosed/fixed. So I bought it as a project car. Literally over 80 codes, most are in the HV module, will 'ready up' after codes are cleared and will start and run 10 seconds and then HV triangle comes on and engine shuts off. Car can not 'ready up' till codes are cleared again. Some of the concerning codes are listed below, I have checked all fuses, 12v battery stays above 13 volts when using scan tool w/charger, using scan tool can activate accessories using bi-directional controls. HV battery is around 186 volts, block voltages are 12.6 to 13.09 on HV battery. No evidence of rodent damage to wiring in engine compartment. I am concerned about running HV battery much lower, don't have a charger so I am looking for some suggestions as to what codes to start diagnosis process with. Codes range from U0100-211,212 & 530, U0110-129,140 through 146, 151, 159,160, 164, 656 & 657, U1107-436 P062F-143 & 165 EE Prom Malfunction, P0630-804 VIN not matching, P0A1d-821, 822 & 823 Hybrid Control Module. P3000-003,388,389 HV battery malfunction, P3004-131,132,133,800,801,803 power cable malfunction. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
With all of those communication codes (that's what all the U codes are), once you are confident the 12 volt power supply is solid, it will be good to start working through the troubleshooting in the "networking" section of the repair manual (more info). There are a bunch of computers in the car, and as long as they can't reliably communicate with each other, weirdness will reign.
Thanks for the info, what is your opinion regarding the HV Battery currently at 186 volts according to the scanner, is this still in the normal operating range?
The HV battery is too low and needs to be charged via prolong charger or homemade charger. http://www.RedBullet.net https://ProjectLithium.com/?ref=mG0GE http://www.Pulstar.com http://www.PlugOutPower.com Use code 7373 http://www.hybridpit.com Use code azusa http://CatStrap.net Use code azusa
That raw voltage reading doesn't really tell you as much as just letting the car's computer tell you its opinion of the battery. That is, 186 volts is low, but divided by 168 cells is still over 1.1 volts per cell. NiMH fully-discharged thresholds are sometimes set around 1.0 down to 0.9 volts per cell, so that wouldn't be considered totally discharged. On the other hand, you have the P3000-388 code, which is the onboard computer saying "yo, your traction battery state of charge is too low", so that's the verdict that mainly matters, from the thing that ought to know.
Your ICE isn't running. The hybrid ecu will spin it for up to 10 seconds when it tries to start it. Typical faults that could prevent ICE function are, out of gas, faulty fuel pump, dirty throttle body. You need to recharge your HV battery somehow after figuring out what else is wrong. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Thanks for the posts regarding my Prius issues, suggestions were very helpful. Thought I would provide a quick update, after a week or so of trying to balance HV modules to get the HV battery up to par I ended up (due to time constraints) going with a used HV battery out of a wrecked Prius. This took care of some of the problems but still a no start with the gas engine. While working on the back hatch area I inspected the ground cable attaching point on the body and cleaned up this ground connection. Not sure how many 'engine cranks' this used battery would sustain I decided to search through this website and perform a number of maintenance procedures that were identified in a number of other posts. Not having any service records to guide my starting point, I went ahead and performed MAF and MAP cleaning, new spark plugs, fuel pressure test (volume & pressure was good), check for water contamination-appeared fine but due to fuel tank having 1/4-tank, I elected to drain fuel and start with a fresh 5 gallons of gas. When I crawled under the car to install a new PCV valve I notice a vacuum line was off at the intake manifold. Reattached this line. Cleaned all the ground connections under the hood (10 years of midwest winters raises havoc on ground connections). Cleared all codes and gas engine came to life. Guessing vacuum line was main culprit, don't know for sure. I have put about 250 miles on car, and I have had evap hose come off after a trip, I am wondering if I have some pressure buildup in intake? I have performed intake cleaning using the CRC Intake and valve cleaner product as well as installed Sea Foam to a fresh tank of fuel. Will see how things go in the future.
