Toyota Gaves Me These Codes After A Dynastic Today. Any Ideas It Would Be Over 10K From Toyota! The battery is fully green there’s no lights on the combination meter gas tank not working nothing. Not even the check engine lights. It won’t go in to park and the fan is too loud in the back near the traction battery. The car is about 11 Years Old. P0A83 - Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan 1 Stuck On P0A7F - Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration P0A0D - High Voltage System Interlock Circuit High P0AC0 - Hybrid Battery Pack Current Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance P3030 - Disconnection Between Battery And ECU P3012- Battery Block 2 Becomes Weak P0A80 - Replace Hybrid Battery Pack P0851 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit Low P3000/388 - HV Battery Control System Malfunction P0AA6/526 Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault P0AFA - Hybrid Battery System Voltage Low P0A1F - Battery Energy Control Module P0A1D - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2 P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 C2126 - Transmitter ID not Received in Main Mode C1242 - IG2 Power Source Circuit C2318 - Low Voltage Error Power Supply Malfunction C1310 - Malfunction In HV System C1378 - Capacitor Communication Circuit Malfunction C1300 - Skid Control ECU Malfunction C1259 - HV System Regenerative Malfunction B1271 - Combination Meter ECU Communication Stops B2796 - No Communication In Immobilizer System B1424 - Solar Sensor Circuit Driver Side U0100 - Lost Communication With Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module U0293 - Lost Communication With Hybrid Vehicle ECU U0111 - Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module 'A
While I am not in the "jump to suspect the 12 volt battery before even reading any codes" camp (for one thing, people who jump there often lose the record of what codes they had while futzing with the battery), in this case: You have read the codes, and they're here, so you won't lose them There are some in there that specifically refer to low voltage, and others to inability of computers to communicate with each other, and the like In your case I would have no qualms about saying: get a good full charge on the 12 volt battery (takes the better part of a day), or a fully charged replacement, do a code clear and watch for a while to see which ones come back. I won't be shocked if some of them do come back, but a shorter list wouldn't hurt.
Step one is to verify the 12v system. If that means testing, recharging or replacing the 12v battery, then that's what you need to do. Even if a new battery is installed, make sure it's fully charged. Otherwise you may end up chasing your tail during troubleshooting. If the 12v is disconnected from the car, all the codes will clear due to the ecus resetting. It will be interesting to see what codes come back. How long have you owned the car? Have you ever had any problems with the dash just going dark while driving? Have you recently done any jump starts?
