Hey everyone! So I recently purchased a 2010 Prius that was sitting for along time after the head gasket going out. Long story short I finally finished the head gasket/water pump. Now I noticed when sitting at a stop light if I pushed down on the brake while the car was in drive the car would think it was skidding (skidding light would come up on dash and brakes would lock then a few seconds later release). I plugged in my techstreem and it came up with these codes: C1203 C1336 C1345 C1392 What’s going on? Any help is appreciated I’m trying to get this car ready to give to my mom since her 2013 ford caught on fire recently and dealer and insurance is not helping.
Well, those codes might indicate there are some issues to look at, but the behavior you describe isn't one of them ... that's just the hill start feature working exactly as it's designed to. You're at a stop (usually on a hill), you push the brake down a little harder, the skid light blinks to confirm you're in hill start, then you can move your foot to the go pedal and take a couple seconds without rolling. As for those codes, I'm afraid I don't have them memorized. Have you looked them up? What did you find? -Chap
Was the only reason for sitting the head gasket and water pump? It was their something else? How many miles on your Prius? The c1203 is for an incorrect ECU which is the reason for that question. C1345 is for the linear valve offset learning undone. This is also related to the brake booster with the master cylinder. What I would do if no work was done other than the head gasket and water pump and you are sure there is nothing else that has happened in the cars history would be to disconnect the 12v battery for a period of time to allow all the computers to reset, then reconnect the 12v and see what codes return. Good luck and keep us posted .
Ok, I had a moment to look them up. The last three of those codes are simply about calibrations being lost (C1336, the acceleration sensor zero point; C1345, the linear solenoid offset, as Ray mentioned; C1392, the stroke sensor zero point). If the car sat for long enough with no (or deeply discharged) 12 V supply to the constantly-powered (usually labeled B) circuits of the ECUs, those calibrations could have been forgotten. Once you have a solid reliable 12 volts, if you have Techstream as you say, you'll find utilities on the brake/skid ECU page for telling the ECU to relearn those calibrations. It's as simple as that. There are some simple preconditions in the repair manual (such as, make sure you're parked in a level spot before setting the acceleration zero point, etc.) that you can review, but usually the utility in Techstream will kind of step you through the requirements. The C1203 is an odd one. I'm not sure what Ray means saying it's "for an incorrect ECU." It's a code about communication between the brake/skid ECU and the ECM, but the detection condition is a little mysterious. (Maybe it's clearer in Japanese.) It's set if "no stored information for destination", "no stored information whether VSC is in operation or not", or "destination information from HV-ECU does not match with stored value". I'm pretty sure "destination" here has nothing to do with nav, and probably refers to settings made at the factory identifying the regional market into which the car's being sold. (Maybe that was what Ray meant.) But this also sounds like a kind of stored setting that may have been lost. Maybe you will see something about it in the Techstream live data. Maybe it will recover after a reset as Ray suggests, or maybe not; I'd be interested to hear. I'm not seeing anything about a way to reenter that information, but it might happen as part of a reflash at the dealer. Replacing the ECU would be the fallback plan.... -Chap
Thank you guys so much! So here is what happened I thought that the skidding coming up was a issue with abs so I had my friend throw on his huge snap on scanner to run tests and that’s when all the abs codes came on. So I’m thinking somehow those tests or his scanner made my computer lose communication. If someone can walk me through how to use the tech stream to re do the calibration I would be very grateful! Also on a side note I am having a issue with my window master switch, it will only roll down the driver side window. The other windows work from there individual switch’s but not from the master. I just assumed it was a problem with the switch so I ordered a new one and it is still having the same issue with only working on the drivers window.