Hi there I replaced the ABS actuator(new OEM) everything went well(bleed the lines manually) car worked fine no codes. After a few weeks I had a misfire, parked the car for a week until I got all new coil packs(OEM).When I got the coil packs and went to replace them, as soon as I opened the door I got the ABS notification/alarm and all the lights on. Brakes were hard and the actuator was pumping again every 5-10 seconds. Scanned a got a lot of codes (see bellow.) I tried to bleed the brakes again maybe that would fix something, no luck (when I was bleeding the rear brakes the pedal would feel hard, the front ones I could press the pedal all the unlike the rear ones,). Also the techstream break bleed failed (picture attached) Another thing that I noticed was the values from the wheel cylinder (V) in the Freeze Frame Data (c1246 and c1265 vary) Also when I open the drivers door the ABS warning (sound) goes off for ten seconds then it stops, I hear a relay from the engine bay double click as I open the door then when the sound goes off one click checked all ABS fuses Visually inspected all relays (didn't check if they actually work) Didn't check harness just made sure it was connected to the actuator No leaks in the system the break fluid reservoir stays on the max line Drained 12v battery during the break bleed. I reconditioned it, it now read 12.4v Error codes: C1246 master cylinder pressure sensor DTC 205 C1253 Hydro-Booster pump motor relay C1256 ACCumulator low pressure C1311 Open circuit in Main Relay 1 C1313 Open circuit in Main Relay 2 C1264 W/C Pressure Sensor C1265 ACC Pressure Sensor DTC 215 Could a brand new actuator go bad? Did I mess up something during install? The car was fine until I parked it, and the accumulator sounded great didn't pump every 5 sec like it does now. Any suggestions, ideas?
No I don't think a brand new brake actuator can just go bad like that well I guess it could anything electronic can go bad at any time etc etc It should be covered if it's brand new but it looks like too many things going on like the 12 volt has something to do with it when I have troubles in the 12 volt croaks or is near croaking when I'm doing this to some of my other cars all the sudden all these codes pop up soon as the 12 volt is taken care of and I do the stuff correctly relays have to come out and all that stuff to do it with the Toyota software and then it's all good to go generally but I find it quite odd like you said You're 12 volt died during all this so now you're 12 volt is good I don't know whether you charged it up and you think it's going to hold or you got a new battery whatever so now what's happened after the 12 volt is up to snuff You're still stuck with all these codes? I guess so huh try it again in the morning
Despite many claims to the contrary here and all over the internet, when you replace the ABS actuator/accumulator you need to use the brake bleed procedure for replacement ABS actuator/accumulator. You can access this procedure using Techstream. If you haven't already done this, you need to do the bleed process properly to rule out that before pursuing anything else. Connect a battery charger with decent amperage output while doing the bleed process.
I've been trying for a week, the battery is old, but it charges and it says its in good working order. I will focus on the battery today
You might be correct, even during the initial install, I didn't use techstream, I will try to hook it up to a new battery charger while I try repeat the process.
Update: Got a new toyota battery, a battery charger to keep the battery charged. Tried again started the air bleed process as soon as I made it to the open solenoid section "air bleed failed". Tried a few times then I got a new popup saying air bleed is not available on this vehicle (see pictures)
Are you using a cheap M-VCI cable by any chance? Many have reported problems trying to bleed brakes using them.
Well I can tell ya. Do have bleeding on Gen2 . What you have clearly is a communication problem but there's nothing to do with the car It's the tooling used to connect to the car.
I bought it from ebay years ago Any recommendations for a better m-vci cable I found this Xhorse XDMVJ0GL J2534 $80
People report that the Autel AP200 can do the bleed procedure, but I cannot confirm that it works personally. It doesn't use Techstream at all, rather its own software. See also: Tactrix Openport 2.0: a USA-made, non-flaky, onboard diag dongle works with Techstream | PriusChat
It looks like the ap200 software looks on screen almost exactly like my bleed menu in techS on my toughbook. I cannot imagine how different it could be.but my AP 200 wks great as long as Android 12 or lower is used. No issues maybe considered slow but eh.
I suspect that the dongle/driver software just work better on the Prius's communication bus, so the AP200 can get through the whole bleed procedure without a fatal communication error whereas the MiniVCI cannot. We know the problem with the bleed isn't Techstream since it can do the bleed successfully with some adapters, like the Tactrix linked above.
Update: Bought Tectrix openport 2.0 installed it (very easy installation. Installed the driver- selected the right adapter under setup) From the start it didn't work right (connection issues) I did notice the faster speeds once in the menu (1900ms vs 1100ms with the old one). Started the bleed process I did FR and FL sides then it started the "AIR BLEED failed start over" messages. My brand new 12 volt battery was connected to the charger showing over 13V. When the ABS motor relays were connected the actuator sounded terrible.
Bleed the brakes up front with the relays out like a regular car no air in the front. But the relays back in get your assistant to sit in the car and do the two rears on electric pump is going to pump that fluid out Make sure the reservoir is completely full and clear each side of there be careful that stuff will hit you in the face if you're not careful. When that's done hook up tech software. Bring up the bleed procedure and keep hitting next until you get to the step that opens up the valves in the actuator because you've already bled the brakes. So now you run up to the menu where it tells you next you're going to step on the pedal 30 times and 30 seconds or something along those lines and while that's happening it's going to open the valves in the actuator and you click next and then a red line appears and you start pumping the brakes it doesn't matter if you pump more but not less than the 30 and that bleeds out your internal actuator than any air goes up into the reservoir or whatever and out to atmosphere if you will. Now what do you have.? Did the lights clear when you reboot the car? If not you may need to set the linear valve offset and before you do that you have to erase the known values in the system it's in the menu.
It could be I have five or six of all of these things laying around here not even I have attempted to change one yet not that that means anything but I haven't and they're pain in the rear end to get out and put back in I guess you could take one and hang it and plug it in but I think they need to be grounded I'm not even sure about that but so far I haven't replaced any skid control ECUs in the two or three or four that have been here as of yet and they've all had actuators most of them I haven't even changed the resistor because I'm using a used actuator so the resistor is kind of moot right certainly is not going to match the actuator that I took out of the used car 75 mi away so I'm not even sure how that resistor really comes into play other than it goes with the actuator I understand it's matched to the resistance as a total or whatever wonderful but all of these things are going to be pretty close and most electronics have a tolerance or arrange so you know getting all up under the dash for 0.4 of an ohm seems well kind of silly to me but to somebody who does electronic work and crunches numbers all day that could be sacrilegious driving my car my car doesn't seem to care about any of that at least not yet.
you know when I replaced the actuator I didn't replace the resistor that it came with, you think maybe that's the issue?
Never say never, but my impression is that few people doing ABS replacements are also replacing the resistor. Which suggests that they don't fail very often. The top has to come off the dash to get to it. It looks like the resistor has a long cable with a plug. If that plugs in some place lower down in the dash that can be reached then perhaps you could plug in the new one temporarily and see if it makes a difference. Seems unlikely that the location of that resistor is very important. Heaven only knows why they stuck it up in the corner of the dash like that. Probably a case of "look, we have 5 cubic inches of unused space in the dash, let's put the resistor there".
I haven't changed one yet I even did a friend of mine's car and it came with it He has it in the bag in the trunk everything working fine every one of these I check is within a certain range I haven't written down somewhere and it is in manual so I'm not sure what the deal is other than I guess they manufacture the resistor with the piece so whatever it would be can't go wrong..
