Well I went to a car dealership today with my father. Who will be a co-signer for the car loan for me. He knows I am on top of my finances. He will never do this for me if I was a slacker. Anyways I have attached the image of the finance paper the car salesman gave us. The total price came out to be $11,994.84 out the door. Their sales tax and doc fees are astronomical. I talked to the DMV of the state of Utah. They told me I can get the car registered cheaper if it was done by me instead of the car dealership. I hope that's true. They also said if I have the car registered by me I can avoid paying the dealer doc. fee. Which right now is $289.85 I mentioned this to the car salesman. He seemed agitated when I told him this by the way. He said "Every car dealership in Utah charges everyone the doc. fee. There's no going around that." Also he said "We can't give you the 7 year or 100,000 mile warranty on that car." (From which I remember him telling me and my father earlier that day that's it not from the dealership but from Toyota.) So it has 20,000 miles left to go for the warranty. He told us it will just be "As is". Now the sheet I provided is the sheet he gave us. I told him to break down the "other fees" and he wrote down the paper. I will list them below in case its not readable. -Temp license plate tag -Licensing -Property tax -Licensing corridor (tax for highways around Utah) -Tire Tax (A fee that the state charges every dealership) The state automatically assumes that every car dealership will have 5 brand new tired on the car. This is what he told us. Total = $205.00 He did not run our credit score but we gave him an estimate of our scores. He wrote down the interest rates and with $2,000 circled what we would be paying monthly the car loan. I just have a feeling that this is a fishy deal and hopefully someone can set it straight. I don't have any friends that are car salesman although I wish I did right now. Can also someone tell me if I am being ripped off or not? I just want to learn if all of these fees are necessary?? I hope someone can help out. Thank you. p.s. Also another thing that disturbed me was the fact that he told me and my father that if we put $2,000 today or tomorrow they can reserve it for us. He was saying who knows if it might be still available later this week or even next week.
The Edmunds appraises this car at $8895 dealer retail. Document fee usually is $50-$100. This misc fee is completely bogus. Temp tag is free. Licensing is part of the registration fee. No body paid property tax on cars. Never heard of highway tax except included in gas price. Tire tax is paid when purchasing the tires, not during ownership transfer.
Yes i agree this dealer is ripping you off. When i sold cars we NEVER did anything like this with the fees. You pay for the car plus sales tax and registration fees period
Seems like a lot of money for a 3 year old manual transmission car with 80000 miles. It better be just like new for that money. I think I'd pass.
I wouldn't be worried about putting a down payment down so that you don't lose the car. I doubt there's a shortage of Toyota Corollas with high miles on them in UT. I went on Edmunds and looked up the value of your car (per the attached invoice) in Salt Lake City since you don't list what city you're in. If this Corolla is fully loaded, it's worth a little over $11,000 retail if it is in outstanding condition with all available options. If it has no additional options, it's worth around $9600. As far as the $205 in "other fees" that seems reasonable assuming those are fees that EVERYONE has to pay when they purchase a used car. Some states have more fees than others. The sales tax looks to be just under 7%. You'll have to pay that no matter where you buy your car from. I don't get the Dealer Doc fee. Under the $205 "other fees," he lists temp. tag and licensing and you have a $42 registration fee. If those are already paid under "other fees" and "registration fee," then why do you have to pay a $289.85 Doc. fee? I'd probably dispute that or perhaps you can do what you mentioned- register the car yourself. If the car comes with a 100K warranty already from the previous owner, I'm not sure why the dealer would threaten to hold back that warranty from you unless the dealership is able to "cash in" the balance of the warranty. Good luck with your purchase.
Thats a lot of money for an 06 with 80,000 miles. I know around here the dealerships are selling 2009 LE's for $14,000 and the Base ones for around $12,000 if you can find them. What's the name of this dealership? Is it a Toyota Dealer? Do you care if it has auto or manual windows? Cars For Sale: Car Details - AutoTrader.com
Every dealer takes a different approach of how to inflate the price. The two options are: 1) Have a few items that cost over $500 (Dealer Prep, Dealer blah blah blah) 2) Have gobs of items that cost between $50 to $150 (Transfer Fee, Environmental Fee, Blah-Blah-Blah Fee) Having gone through this too many times, I now am as blunt as can be. It goes like this: Here is the best deal (total price) I have and it is from XYZ cars. If you can do better I will replace XYZ with your deal as the best. After going to ABC Car, RST Cars, etc. I will return to the best deal. I do not give a damn about how you split up the fees, just tell me what the final number is and I will decide on that. After going to though all the deals, I go to the best and get the car from them. And then I do exactly that. Lot's of leg work needed....and results in many of the "fees" changing right before my eyes. One more note: Once I get the salesman's price, I take his business card and write the price on the back and take this to the next dealer. They hate that.....since it works.
Thats exactly how i got my Prius. Dealer had em for 19,947. Told them if they could allow me to finance exactly 10,000 out the door i would sign right there. Somehow they dropped the price 2k (my trade in, they gave me 12k for it and turned around after some reconditioning and listed it for 18k on their used car lot) wouldn't have bought that truck for the life of me after what i had done to it. Just be careful when buying a used car, even though it may have a clean Carfax doesn't mean it hasnt been in an accident and repaired out of pocket. Somehow CarMAX can tell even when that scenario happens. Someone did $1500 worth of damage to my moms Avalon and they paid out of pocket for it instead of through insurance and somehow the guys at Carmax could tell it had been redone when the TOyota guys couldn't.
Thats a lot of money for an 06 with 80,000 miles. I know around here the dealerships are selling 2009 LE's for $14,000 and the Base ones for around $12,000 if you can find them. What's the name of this dealership? Is it a Toyota Dealer? Do you care if it has auto or manual windows? Well I was looking for a car either a Honda or Toyota. The max price I was able to afford is $10,000. That price because I wanted to have low monthly payments and fitting more of my budget. Maybe I should just try going thru a private seller. Although I am going to try Beehive Auto Sales soon not sure when. The name of the dealership I went to is Mark Miller Toyota. They are located at 730 South West Temple. Nope I don't really care if it has manual or power windows. Also don't care if its manual or automatic transmission. Just as long its reliable, good gas mileage and priced well.
