ok, so I am looking at an audio upgrade for my 2011 3. I already have the nav headunit. To be honest, I do not like the thing, but it will be the last component (if at all) I replace in the audio department. I am curious on any input from the community here...as I have seen and heard some work by others. First off, I am coming from this system in my Nissan Titan. Two Boston G5's 10" subs in a sealed box with radiators. I am running them with a Sundown amp 1000w RMS at 1ohm. This is coupled with Boston SPZ component door sets running at 130W RMS at 3ohms with another Sundown amp. At the end of the day, this system is a power hog (pulling 80 amps). Additionally, I am not and have never been a fan of sealed boxes. But when you are cramped for space, you do what you can. Fastforward to my Pri...I now have ample cargo space for a ported box. I am looking at the following: Sub: JL Audio HO112R-W6v2 (ported box from JL Audio with one 12" W6 sub) http://www.jlaudio.com/ho112r-w6v2-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93132 Door Speakers: yet to be determined (less of a concern for me) Amp: JL Audio HD900/5. This will run the 12" W6 at 500W plus provide 100W per door for component sets. http://www.jlaudio.com/hd900-5-car-audio-hd-amplifiers-98223 I would at least to have to bump up to the Optima battery fom the stock. I did some rough measurements in the cargo bay and this would take up most of the room between the wheel wells. The area in front of the wheel wells would still be free and the top of the box would be slightly under the height of the rear seat headrests and would not abstruct any visuals in the rearview mirror. Between amp and sub/box, it is about a 100lb gain. I really want a ported box again and this combo seems to match what I am after. An upgrade to a W7 speaker seems to required a larger sub amp and then a separeate door speakers amp which I would like to avoid if possible. The overall increase in box size is not that much...so no issue there. Lastly, I am interested in the JL Audio 13W6v2-D4 13.5" sub, but there does not seem to be any market out there for the HO port box (or I cannot find it). I would perfer this sub and it fits the amp wattage better than the 12". I will probably give JL audio a call just to confirm the situation. With a battery upgrade and the component sets...I am estimating a 2k budget for this system. Any input from those that have used these components or something similar?
as for the battery... i think the stock battery will be fine. never use the system without the car in READY. sitting idle with stereo use will only burn a gallon every 10 hours or so... if you really are pulling anywhere near what you were pulling, it's still a gallon consumed every 6+ hours. as for a peak.. your capped somewhere around 1200 watts because of the dc inverter that feeds the 12v line... a constant is somewhere around 900-1000. i have an inverter hooked up to my car.. i've pulled a constant 900 watts.. i've also clipped over many times. a genIII offers a little more juice than my genII
You do not need a different battery with the HD900/5. I even removed my capacitor after checking with JL Audio. Has worked great for me over a year and a half now. Stock speakers do not play with this amp because it puts out at 4Ω per channel. Replacing the speakers will require some modification to the end hook ups. Below are the speaker ratings for 2010 JBL (3,4,5) and the 2010 JBL (W/O Nav) wiring Diagram. I believe they are the same for 2011, though pin assignment may vary. I did not like the Base radio or JBL offerings so I bought a Prius II and replaced everything. I did however spent more than you mentioned. Check my album. Study and plan you upgrade throughly. Good luck.
Are you going to replace the JBL Factory HU? I know you were undecided about this. If not, are you going to tap into the current factory Amp for you line outs to the JL amp? Please detail your install plans. I too have the JBL system and am looking to upgrade my system as well. What I am finding out is that the JBL HU sends a DIGITAL signal to the Factory Amp, for such things as volume control, fade, balance etc. So they both go together like hand and glove. I want to keep my current JBL HU and add a JBL MS-8 and Infinity Basslink self powered Sub. Do some sound deadening in the doors and where else I can that is not too intrusional. See how that sounds then re-assess.
I don't believe the Monster Cable BS one bit, but the stock Toyota speaker wire is as thick as dental floss.
thanks for the input guys. I suppose I can stick with the stock battery until I kill it. I was only prepared to replace it since I have read multiple stories of how the stock battery is not that great to begin with. As long as there is no noticable voltage drop (lights dimming, etc)...I will probably leave it alone. I do not plan to replace the headunit at this time. Of all the changes (sub, amps, door speakers, headunit)...the headunit will offer the least improvement compared to the other additions. I am sure an aftermarket unit will put out a higher and better signal to the amp, but anyways that will have to wait. Thanks for the stock speaker impedance info. That just makes the decision easier to replace them . I think I will also go with a JL audio set or perhaps Polk. The only other concern I see is the sub turning the car into a rattle machine. I know these cars are notorious for that even without a sub. But I suppose that is going to be a fight I have to fight when it happens.
There are some rattles, but people hear them more because the car is so quiet. Door panels will come off if you do the speakers, so some "type" of dynamat will do wonders for road noise as well. Good luck with your project.
