Do The Brakes Set Codes When Flushing?

Yes, you will need to have the dealer do the brake flush using the Techstream computer.

 

You are about 9 years away from needing to worry about this.

 

Yes, that's one way to do it. Other ways are pulling relays etc. But disconnect the negative and wait for 5 minutes, that guarantees that nothing bad can happen, at least due to something in the car.

I know some people will disagree with me, but I think the absolute earliest that you need to do anything with brake fluid is 5 years.

 

I think this is for second gen brake job. It has description on how to dismiss codes if you've done something like brake bleed or push in the pistons:

Brake Job: Toyota Prius: Brake and Front End

(it's first google hit for "prius brake pad replacement")

FWIW, Honda recommends brake fluid replacement every 3rd year, regardless of mileage. Also, I'd really like to hear from anyone who's done Prius brake work, how it went, what to watch out for, particularly regarding codes, any cautions.

 

Here's an excerpt from the manual, brake fluid replacement without Techstream. Also, the complete brake section from the manual. Something odd: it says you can do brake fluid replacement without Techstream, and then a little further on says you can't do brake bleed without Techstream. Anyway, have a read

Here's the specific instruction for setting ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) to "Invalid" mode, without TechStream:

+++++++++++++++++++++

* Performing the following procedure will select ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode without using the Techstream.

* ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode allows the brake fluid to be replaced without using the Techstream.

* The brake warning light / yellow will blink to indicate when ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode is selected.

* Be sure to inspect that the brake warning light / yellow is blinking while replacing the brake fluid.

* When one of the following conditions is met, ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode is cancelled, and then the DTCs may be stored. So do not cancel the ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode while replacing brake fluid.

>The shift lever is used to select from P to any other position.
>Turn the power switch on (READY).
>Turn the power switch off.
>The parking brake is released.
>The vehicle velocity is not 0 km/h (0 mph).

* Do not rotate the brake disc while ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode is selected.

* When replacing the brake fluid from the brake line, do not depress the brake pedal to operate the brake booster pump more than 100 seconds. If the brake booster pump is operated more than 100 seconds, ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode is automatically finished and the DTCs may be stored.

* Add brake fluid carefully and check that the reservoir level remains between the MIN and MAX lines.

* Do not stand the fluid can on the reservoir inlet. Doing so will cause brake fluid to overflow.

(a) Remove 4 wheels.

(b) Select ECB (Electronically Controlled Brake system) Invalid Mode.

Perform the procedure listed below in 1 minute.

1. Turn the power switch on (IG) with park (P) selected and parking brake applied.
2. Select N and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times in 5 seconds.
3. Push the P position switch and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times in 5 seconds.
4. Select N and then depress the brake pedal more than 8 times in 5 seconds.
5. Push the P position switch.

(2) Check that the brake warning light / yellow is blinking.

+++++++++++++++++++++

I'm thinking the above would be good to do before any brake work, say swinging up the caliper to check pad thickness, for example. It's also good to NOT open the drivers door, this invariably activates some pressurizing function, I think.

Addendum: The Repair Manual is a big and blowsy tome: I double checked and brake pad inspection is not either of the 2 files I first posted. So I've posted a 3rd:

2010 Toyota Prius Repair Manual - maintenance - brakes.pdf

Just the pad inspection. Of course, step one is to disable the Brake Control, so this is all likely Cargo Cult.

 

From what I see you can replace the fluid either with or without the Techstream as long as there is no air in the system. But if you want to bleed air out of the system you must use a Techstream.

If I keep the car more than 5 years I will try to replace the fluid without the techstream. If I get codes I'll take it to the dealer and have them cleared. Or I may just do it the way El Dobro suggests.

 

I'm still on the fence, but: if the dealership is competent, and the price is not through-the-roof, I might be inclined to sit this one out, let them get their hands dirty, and deal with the codes.

 

Yes, I might do that also. If I could pick the mechanic I would be fine with it, but I'm always afraid they might put one of their trainees on it.

 

Hopefully there will be a lot more independent hybrid shops and perhaps even an ASE hybrid certification by the time you guys need to do this. Until then, disconnect the battery negative cable any time you are working with the calipers.

 

Yup, every 3/30k I believe.

I believe my local Toyota dealer charges $119.

 

Would you mind verifying that? The labor guide quotes 2 hours for a full bleed, then there is the cost of fluid on top. Anytime I see this quoted for less than $200, I am skeptical.

 

Flushing brake fluid is often neglected, but it is a wise thing to do every 30,000 miles or 2-3 years if you want to maintain peak braking performance and avoid costly brake system repairs. Over time, brake fluid becomes contaminated by absorbing moisture and can cause ABS valves to stick and malfunction. This is an expensive ($1500-$2000) repair on conventional ABS cars, probably even more expensive (maybe double) on a Prius. Moisture will also migrate to the calipers and degrade stopping ability. In extreme cases, moisture in calipers can boil in a panic stop and cause a loss of braking.

A scan tool is required to fully flush conventional cars with ABS and even more so with the Prius with the interaction of the HSD. However, on a conventional ABS car, you can also flush the brake fluid without a scan tool which will flush everything (master cylinder, lines, calipers) except the ABS module and a few asociated sections of brake line. From what others are saying, it sounds like you can do the same type of flush, without a scan tool, on a Prius as long as you disconnect the battery. This sounds reasonable to me.







I do a brake flush without a scan tool on my conventional cars between dealer flushes, and when installing new rotors and pads, using a MOTIVE http://www.motiveproducts.com/ power brake bleeder connected to the brake reservoir, rather than the old "pump and hold" method which can damage the master cylinder and induce air into the brake system.Typical flush schedule is:

• 30K - Dealer complete flush with scan tool
• 60K - MOTIVE flush without scan tool by me
• 90K - Dealer complete flush with scan tool
• 120K - MOTIVE flush without scan tool by me
• etc.

I had the dealer do a complete, scan tool flush of the Prius brake system at 30,000 miles and could feel improved braking afterward. It cost $134.00, but I think it is cheap insurance if you plan to keep the car for more than 5 years or 100,000 miles, considering the high cost of repair and the importance of braking safety.

Being a DIYer I still like the idea of being able to do a brake flush myself. I will probably do the MOTIVE, non-scan tool , disconnect the battery, flush on the Prius at 60,000 miles and report the results. Has anyone actually done this on a Gen III Prius?

EDIT: MOTIVE also has the "Power Fill" which looks like it would be good for filling the Prius transmission. Just ordered the 2.5 gallon unit.

 

Den, I think your schedule is very conservative, but I would like to hear how it goes for you esp. if you use the MOTIVE tool. Brake fluid on Prius in particular is extremely neglected because no one ever needs to get pads changed. But neglect here is not the same as on a conventional car, where 10 years of the original fluid will trash the system. Hobbit's experience on Gen II is in line with what I have seen with my own Prii and others that I have looked at. I expect Gen III to be the same.

100K maint - 1

 

Eeesh, I think even having TechStream I wouldn't want to attempt this after reading through the PDF that Mendel posted. Although, if anyone local wants to attempt with TS, I'd be glad to loan a cable and be a casual observer

 

Seilerts, as usual you make some good points. The "100K maint - 1" article is particularly impressive. Causes me to think that just doing the dealer complete flushes every 60K is probably sufficient for the Prius. Skipping the MOTIVE flushes also saves me the potential headache of dealing with computer code problems.

The reason I do the flushes more often on my conventional cars is before I did so, I had a '97 LeSabre that needed its ABS module changed to the tune of $1600.00. Since then, I had done the alternating flushes every 30,000 miles and not had any problems. The MOTIVE flush only costs $8.00 for a quart of DOT3/4 fluid.

Thanks.