Major thanks for posting these observations, Bruce. After two months, I'm really starting to think about getting the EV switch -- I just want to be able to keep the car in EV mode without having to accellerate slowly, etc. However, I do have a question for those who have compared the Coastel Tech EV switch and the Toyota switch (installing it with the excellent instructions Dr. Fusco and others have published): [align=center:ec06303d75]Which is easier to install?[/align:ec06303d75] Specifically -- I am a gump when it comes to something like this. All opinions appreciated!
I had three problems installing the EV button. 1 Had to remove a dealer installed car alarm which used the ev switch hole cover for it's led button. Next time I will specify I want only the Toyota alarm option. They put in "Automate" and I have permanently removed it! I set it off honking accidentally every few days. 2 Getting the wire across under the dashboard. I removed more dashboard than others, and then it got easier. 3 Getting the pin into the H14 connector. (I broke off the end of the white latch, but pins seem to stay in.) Pin was hard to push, so you have to be very careful not to let it bend. I used 26 wire so it was extra fragile. Had to choose 22 or 26 from my stock of wire. Item 1 is uniquely my problem, but the other two are equally applicable to the CT or the factory EV so I doubt there's much difference in difficulty.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bookrats\";p=\"62571)</div> 98% certainty and the 2% is only because I haven't done the OEM (or make your own) switch - the CT switch. tomdeimos is incorrect about saying #2 & #3 are common to both installs. #2 doesn't exist with the CT install. I chose the CT mod because it was the same price as the OEM button but was complete. Near as I can tell, the only thing you get with the OEM is the button and the thing to hold it in the dash. Then you have to build your own wiring harness, stealing an unused pin, etc. The CT mod requires clipping on 2 wire taps (that cut through the insulation). The electronic part has 3 wires just a few inches long. 2 with male connectors that are pushed onto the taps and 1 with the pin already solidly attached into the harness. All parts included (plus jelly beans) and done on the right side of the car. Remove lower glovebox door, silver vent cover and plain plastic cover below that. Long skinny fingers would be helpful for tapping the purple wire in the middle of the harness. My only error, other than clumsiness, was not getting the pin in ALL the way in. If you can see any part of the pin, it isn't all the way in. In another thread it was mentioned that if you look at the opposite end of the connector, you can see the pin ends and tell if it is all the way in. That was after my install so I can't comment. It took me 30 min (suggested time) to do it before 1st test and 15 of those were fumbling around tapping that middle purple wire. It isn't like you have 2 feet of harness to pull out and lay in your lap. With either method, it would help to have a tiny screwriver just the same size as the flat edge of the pin so you can confidently push it that last 1/64". I think the CT mod may actually be easier to use than a switch in the OEM button position. The button isn't visible on the left side of the steering wheel. I think it might be somewhat difficult to find with gloved hands. The CC stalk, of course, is always right there. Ok, sometimes it is up there, or over on the other side, but mostly, it is right there.
Thanks for the correction. If there is no wire across the dash behind the Nav display, I would agree the CT mod should be easier. Also if I was to do the factory button again I think I would just pre-order the riight pins for the ECU plug. I think they would go in easier. For the EV button end I found 0.156 inch Molex pins worked just fine. The flat kind not the round ones. I like my lighted button though... Now if only the display would show and "EV Mode" indicator we would have complete Prius! I find it very disconcerting that I get beeps at times and not at others, depending on what screen I am on.
I agree. I would like a "You are running in EV" light and a "Cruise Control Engaged" light. I don't care to know that the CC is on 'stand-by' as much as I want to know it is actually on. And an engine run light, and .....
Thank you, gentlemen -- just what I wanted to know. The other reason I rather like the CT EV switch: the unlikely event that a dealer notices the OEM button and says, Hey buddy, you've voided your warranty. [Also, I have never used Cruise Control, and doubt I ever will.] My one thought now is: maybe wait until Coastal Dave gets the AUX-IN solution working, and then get both the CT EV and AUX-IN at the same time.
The Costal Tech EV switch does not interfere with Cruise Control in any way. The disadvantages are that you have to hold the stalk for 2 or 3 seconds (they say 2; it seems to me like 3) and if you are turning it is awkward to reach. These are both minor inconveniences. It took me close to an hour, because I am a total clutz. It is very hard to get at the plug, but this applies no matter which way you implement EV. This seems improbable. I suspect coincidence.
Right, I hope I didn't imply that the CC function was changed! The computer does not allow you to use CC when driving in 'force it to EV mode' no matter how the switch is implemented. This is true for cars in the EU that get it standard and the mods we in N.A. have used. Anyone driving your Prius with the CT EV mod would never know it is there and wouldn't likely find it accidentally when using the CC. You have to hold the switch in the 'cancel' position longer than anyone ever would to cancel CC. It is a clever and well implemented design, IMHO.
I agree, but I think it could have been shorter without interfering with the basic idea, and would have been a bit more convenient. My first paragraph in my last post was actually in reply to Jeff, who said he likes the CT implementation in part because he never uses CC. I wanted to point out that in any case, CC is not affected. -- There may still be some lingering confusion because the beta-test version did affect the CC at slower speeds. But that glitch was fixed before the switch actually went on sale.
That's right -- I remember that complaint when the CT switch was first being tested. Thanks for clarifying that, Daniel!
