Any help would be appreciated. The car has 160K+ miles and was having some misfires on cold start. So I decided to try cleaning both EGR Cooler and Intake Manifold per YouTubers. I also replaced PVC valve per recommendation. After completing the cleaning and reinstallation, the car shuts down after engine starts. I also cleaned the fuel injectors with this because I was afraid I might have smeared something on them when I was cleaning the manifold. Nothing seems to resolve the problem. I repeated manifold and EGR cooler removal and reinstall a few times and to check for missing hose and electrical connections. They all are connected. I am getting P300, P0301, P0302, P3190. The engine starts and stays on for various durations….immediately to almost up to a 50+ seconds. Thanks.
BTW, I got P0102 & P0113 initially. I replaced the MAS sensor. The error codes disappeared but it did not help the stalling. It also came back on and off. It is now off.
Cleaning the EGR is always a good idea, albeit 100k sooner might have helped. Likely head gasket has blown.
so, the engine is probably not starting, but just cranking. you have a generic engine won't start code which could be anything, and the maf sensor. since these two items would affect the engine running, i would retrace my steps, reclean, look for disconnected wires and etc.
Back to basics; Check for fuel, compression, spark. That MEG1 spins the engine pretty fast. It may seem like the engine is running, but it's really just the transmission motor spinning the engine. While this is happening, do you smell gas coming out of your exhaust pipe? That would eliminate the fuel portion of the check. Good Luck......
Thanks for the advice. Thanks for the advice. I repeated the dismantling and reinstalling a number of times. Everything seems to to be in the right place…hoses and cables/connectors. Thanks for the advice. I do not smell gas coming from the tailpipe.
I also replaced all the spark plugs and no help either. The old plugs looked very poor. The iridium tips were burned to almost nothing on all of them and created a huge spark gap. Unfortunately, the plug replacements did not resolve the issue. I checked the ignition coils today. The resistance between pin 1 and 4 were open on all. According to what I read, They should be ~200k ohm. Mines are open. The resistance between pin 1 and 2 was 369 ohm. I believe that is ok. Are the coil bad? Could they all failed at the same time? Thanks.
How long have you had the car, and do know its service history? Where they the stock Denso plugs (SC20HR11, revd to SC16HR11)? Maybe counterfeit? coil testing info in attached:
Thanks for the advice. The plugs were replaced @100K with NGK purchased at Amazon. The original factory plugs were in excellent shape even at 100K when I replaced them. I thought this car was very tender with the plugs. I had a lot of luck with NGK products in the past that’s why I purchased their plugs as replacements. Could they be counterfeit plugs? I guess it would be possible even with Amazon purchases. I will see how to do coil test with one person……crank the engine while grounding the plug. Thanks.
Sorry…. I did not answer your question. It was a brand new purchase from Toyota dealer. I replaced the plugs with NGK Brand myself @100K. The original looked extremely clean and good when I took them out. That’s why I did not think I needed to replace them after 60K miles.
Yeah probably counterfeits. Could just be the source of your current symptoms, but 160K is late-in-the-day for EGR cleaning, so keep your finger's crossed. Driving with partially clogged EGR that long, could be head gasket is holding but compromised.
Amazon is flooded with counterfeit autoparts, particularly electrical & fuel injection related. eBay is even worse. I love Amazon and I spend a lot with them, but I learned to avoid them for autoparts.
I usually get plugs at a local automotive specialty shop, and suspect they’re on par with dealerships for having genuine stuff, and usually cheaper. When I did plugs on our ‘10 (at 12 years and ridiculously low kms) they seemed kinda steep so I checked with local dealership, and they were at least 25% cheaper. that’s for Denso SC16HR11.
I finally had take problem fixed. It was two bad ignition coils that caused the random misfired codes. The first set of replacement parts from Amazon did not work (although it was “compatible/fit”) my car. I later purchased a set of Genuine OEM Toyota coils and it solved the problem. Lesson learned is “stay with genuine OEM parts” especially with critical components. I wanted to thank the members who charmed-in on my post and provided moral support to my issue. Thank you very much. I now will venture out adding a Blind Spot detection to it for extra safety feature. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers.
Pretty much any part you get from ebay or amazon is going to be a cheap chinese copy. You have better luck with a local parts store, they are usually a little better quality cheap chinese copy. Glad you got it fixed. Don't forget to check the plugs...
