Ghost in the machine - the computer is lying

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jeff_the_computer_guy, Apr 22, 2023.

  1. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    I have a 2007 Prius, 124K miles, great car, never had any troubles until someone chopped off my catalytic converter - which I had the dealer fix. Then, all of a sudden, red triangle of death. So I grabbed an android phone, an OBDLink Mx+ and torque pro. I had a leaky prius, 12v battery in at least 6 inches of water, and the car sat idle for 10 days at the dealer while they waited for a cat shield.

    Took the car to the dealer's carwash and red triangle of death. Drove it back to the service area, they pulled a P0a80. They cleared it, road tested it, and they got another RToD when driving near the car wash. They had no clue, said I had no codes after the cat replacement, clearly were concerned about a battery replacement but I don't believe in coincidences. They had no idea of the Gen 2 water issues.

    Anyway, fixed the leaks, aux battery pulls 12.2v, no water after a thunderstorm and a car wash. However, I keep getting RToD's, DTC p0A80 and sometimes p3022. The odd thing is that Torque Pro shows the cells look pretty good (2 weak ones), but the MFD jumps all over the place. RToD when MFD shows battery full. Will add some screen shots.

    This pic is coming home, get RToD, pulled over and took the pics below, put it in drive, no power and absolutely no MFD indicator between the elec motor and battery. Stop and start car, connection resumes as normal

    lost connection.jpg


    This is after clearing codes.

    HV SOC is all over the place -

    At a stop, no ICE, battery showed charging to full green with no power input, dead stop.

    pic 2.jpg

    This one RToD, green battery.

    pic 3.jpg

    RToD while driving, green battery on MFD, cells at 17+.

    Below, Battery at one bar, calls all at 17+

    pic 4.jpg

    So I'm a bit confused. The MFD seems not to agree with the raw data, or I'm missing something so obvious that y'all going to laugh at me.

    A couple of the cells are a bit weak, but the MFD is acting like I need an exorcist or something.

    Any ideas or guidepost y'all can share? This computer nerd can't figure out how the inputs can lead to the outputs in the MFD. Also, looks like cells are OK, but the HV SOC and HV charge vs. the cell charges don't make a lot of sense either.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    classic symptoms of a bad hybrid battery, not unexpected after 16 years.

    you can try opening it up and cleaning any corrosion, but those old cells aren't long for this world
     
    #2 bisco, Apr 22, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2023
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is exactly what I had in my '09 when the battery was failing miserably . Replaced with a new battery and all that mess went away and don't know about all the computer versus MFD versus Android phone data have no idea didn't spend a lot of time testing The battery was close to 16 years old or whatever it was and in my mind time to get a new one We did and everything went away and that was the end of that didn't spend a lot of time mulling over it.
     
  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Doing a full charge and balance of the hybrid battery pack with a high voltage trickle charger is essential after an older Prius has been sitting for 10 days or more. Of course Toyota Stealerships are greedy and would rather rip you off for a small fortune for a new battery pack rather than ensure your pack stays as healthy as possible for as long as possible.

    Maxx Volts and Hybrid Automotive sells these chargers but they are a bit expensive. Or you can make your own for a $100: Build Hybrid Battery Maintenance Gear For Under $100 | PriusChat

    Of course this is just the first step to learning the proper care and feeding of your old battery pack... You may have to do some deep cycling several times to restore capacity in the cells and you may have to replace a module.

    If you enjoy working on cars and learning how they work this may take some time, but very low cost.

    If you don't work on cars then you need to throw a big chunk of money at it.
     
  5. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    Using Torque pro, I can see that two of the modules (7 and 12), when discharging, are always low at about 15.0 and 14.9 when the rest of the modules are at 16.3-16.5. In terms of a significant difference, where does the point where rebalancing might work taper off? Would a volt and a half difference for the "bad" modules be something that might reasonably be worth the expense of a rebalancer or is that a big enough difference where a module might be better replaced (since there are only 2). They do charge up to full charge, but tend to drop faster.

    Just trying to avoid the cost of guessing wrong. With the variance in data from Torque to the MFD, the options of rebalancing, or HV ECU replacement or modules or more tends to add up quite a bit. If I had to go full replacement, I'd probably go lithium from what I can see. Toyota in my area will sell a replacement for $1650 with core turned in, newpriusbatteries wants $1888 and projectlithium wants 2120, all the warranties are about the same, so it's a balancing act with Prolong wanting $719 for the full conditioner.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Don't be confused. When the car's HV control ECU makes the judgment of whether to announce a P0A80, it is looking at more data than just the voltage reading snapshots you are looking at. It's doing computations on things like the relationship between the voltage and the current, and the behavior of both over time. You can't really second-guess it by just looking at a screenful of voltage readings.

    It's been saying P0A80, and you've been saying "hmm, based on my Torque Pro screenshots I don't think you really mean that", and it's been saying "no, really I do."
     
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  7. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    Well I know how it comes out when I argue with computers.... usually... ;)

    although I usually don't keep electronics in a high water level. :0

    I may be grasping at straws, but when I look at the HV SOC, I get a high of 86.6% which is pretty good, and a low of 40%. Looking at the low modules, I see the typical low block voltage (freeze frame) is 15.5-6 and two blocks are lower at 13.9 and 14.0. Taking the highest low and lowest low, that's an 11% difference and it seems the P0A80 is fired at repeated 5% variances normally. The question is whether this is a potential candidate for rebalancing or if it is too far off for a rebalance to help. I guess @jeff652 might be able to give a real-world guideline on that option.

    The next being to replace 2 blocks and then rebalance. Might be worth the spend on the prolong and a couple of modules if the prolong unit would be a good maintenance item anyway, before shelling out $2k for a replacement.

    Trust the computer is not real world in my line of work...if we could always trust computers I wouldn't have a job.

    The data always tells the truth, if available.
     
  8. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    More to the point, when the hybrid back is only sending or receiving a small amount of amps the voltage in the Torque app look fine, but when you're sending a super big charge to the pack by braking hard on the freeway, or draining the pack by accelerating hard the weaker cells can't keep up and the "voltage difference" between blocks gets up over 1 volt and you get a red triangle.

    In general Torque app is garbage and the PIDs you're using are outdated... Try Dr. Prius app instead... It gives real time graphical data of all blocks in an exaggerated way, as well as a "voltage difference" number in real time, as in much faster refresh rates than Torque app.

    And what's great about Dr. Prius app is that all the revenue generated from it was reinvested into the creation of a lithium upgrade pack that you're likely going to end up using if you're committed to your Prius long into the future. Also if you purchase with my affiliate link when they're back in stock in June, I'll give you unlimited tech support: https://projectlithium.com/?ref=9qLPw
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The mfd is only showing a graphical representation of total voltage. Almost any battery can show appropriate voltage after it had a charging voltage applied to it. The real test is how long can it hold the voltage under load. A bad battery discharges fast. The overall amp hour capacity of a worn battery is small.

    Often a car with a weak hv battery can't stay in ev mode using ac at a stop light. The car can feel abnormally underpowered with a soc of 32.5% as in the last pic. Once it charges up again, it will feel normal but not for long.

    Regardless of what the reconditioning guys say, a battery is a limited lifetime device. You have many batteries combined in series, so some eek out a little more time by replacing the weakest modules. Often again and again. New cells are the next best thing to a new engine. Sometimes better.
     
    #9 rjparker, Apr 23, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2023
  10. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    (note: had to remove the link in order to post a reply)

    Thank you for the detail, that is what I am looking for so I can best understand what is going on. Looking at the replacement alternatives and the warranties (even from Toyota if I install myself), lithium seems the best option although having to wait months puts me in a bit of a bind. If I go that way, the Prolong is of little use as I understand it, so it changes the recovery cost equation quite a bit.

    So would the Dr. Prius app give me the indication I am looking for in terms of whether rebalancing the cells is worth it while waiting for a replacement battery?

    Thanks for the info, it helps to understand what is going on. Since it looks like I have two bad modules, it looks like I might be able to buy some time for a tad more money with replacement, but a fair amount of time in labor. With an aging battery and the wait time for a lithium replacement, the question is whether the Prolong system (or equivalent) can save me the time of replacement via rebalancing while waiting and/or if it would help in terms of maintenance if I chose to go NiMH instead of Lithium (which is a few hundred bucks cheaper as a replacement).
     
    #10 jeff_the_computer_guy, Apr 23, 2023
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  11. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    You could probably get an entertaining year or two of comparing readouts and clearing P0A80s on the side of the road, then swapping cells and balancing the pack on weekends.

    If it were me, I'd look at the calendar and say "Gosh, 16 years was great, thanks battery pack!" then go get a new one.
     
  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah usually one buys a battery gets it installed and then you never see them again online until the break accumulator. Or the battery starts to fail again or they get the dreaded catalytic converter code ...they're out of here.
     
  13. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Senior Member

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    You could probably get an entertaining year or two of comparing readouts and clearing P0A80s on the side of the road, then swapping cells and balancing the pack on weekends.

    If it were me, I'd look at the calendar and say "Gosh, 16 years was great, thanks battery pack!" then go get a new one.


    It will become difficult to buy gasoline before it becomes easy to buy electric cars.
    Well said sir!


    So I've been on PC for awhile and this is probably the best post I've read to date...ever.
    Thanks for that! Content delivery tone and word count=amazing.
     
  14. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    This guy has tens of thousands in lab grade testing equipment and sells the best replacement modules: https://2ndlifebattery.com/contact-us/
     
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  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    That's of course if you think the fossil fool industry is actually taking seriously all the promises their captured minions in government are making for the 2030-50's, but truth is they aren't... Oil productions subsidies are at record levels: Governments Spent Record $1 Trillion Subsidizing Fossil Fuels Last Year - Yale E360 because as always there's no consequences for corporations not telling the truth, as long as their ads make you feel like you aren't being lied to the truth doesn't matter.
     
    #15 PriusCamper, Apr 23, 2023
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  16. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    LOL I'm already there, had to clear codes a half dozen times in a 1 hour drive yesterday. It is amazing how I went from no problem to this poor state in such a short time.

    it's interesting, the battery thing is like looking at a house that needs a roof. Even though it's a big expense, the impact is exaggerated in the discount - a $10K roof typically means a 20-30K discount in a house price. A Gen 2 prius with a bad battery is running about $2K in fair shape otherwise, so could be a profitable hobby.

    I wonder how long before the first tranche of electric car owners have to replace batteries en masse? That $60K battery replacement is going to hurt. That will probably be the end of it, the economics of electric cars, when taken in total (including electricity generation and precious metal consumption) are so far off sustainable, let alone green, it's amazing.
     
    #16 jeff_the_computer_guy, Apr 23, 2023
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  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the batteries typically last beyond the cars life expectancy. but for people who can never let go, yeah, that might be a problem
     
  18. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I sure hope the fossil fool industry is sending you paychecks to make false claims like this. I'm sure they'd be happy to pay you to promote this level of dishonesty.

    Truth is even the most expensive Tesla replacement battery is under $20K... And I got a reference for that: https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/how-often-do-tesla-batteries-need-to-be-replaced

    Where's your reference/link?

    Also beyond the $60K claim... There was a lecture in Portland this weekend that I wish I could of attended:

    "...economically dealing with retired EV batteries is an important topic. It is estimated that the first huge wave of EV battery retirement will hit in 2025, and more retired batteries will be available each year thereafter. On the other hand, renewable energy, such as solar photovoltaic (PV) and wind, also enjoy a high rate of penetration. To buffer the volatile nature of the energy output of renewable energy systems, battery energy storage systems (BESSs) are frequently incorporated to balance out the variability in power generation, efficiently manage the dynamics of demand and supply, mitigate the potential failure of the grid due to over generation, provide power during a power outage, and enable cost savings by shifting the peak use and reduce demand charge. However, the high cost of new batteries in renewable and grid storage systems is a major concern for potential home and business owners." https://ieee-sustech.org/program/keynotes/#mi
     
    #18 PriusCamper, Apr 23, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2023
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I think a little perspective on hv battery costs versus engines vs junking the car is worthwhile.

    Back in 2008 my mid trim Prius cost $25k out the door but a hv battery back then was $4,500. About 18% if it failed. Which they rarely did in the first ten years. Today you can have new cells installed for $2,250, 50% of the new replacement costs from 15 years ago. Or you can diy for $1650 using Toyota cells. About a third of the original cost. An engine rebuilt by Toyota is typically $8k. I would rather replace the battery.

    Even today we can buy a new EV for less than $45k. They don't have a transaxle or engine, and permanent magnet motors are essentially bulletproof. $15k-$20k for a battery ten or fifteen years from now sounds reasonable.

    Tesla and Toyota will soon have their own battery factories which will drive the battery prices down at least 50% again. Of course they will be joined by China, Europe and the rest of the domestics who will build their own battery factories. Manufacturers design and build engines today and will do the same with batteries.

    Most of a given model's production never make 200,000 miles before being retired. Only 1.2% of all cars are still on the road at 200k miles. Prius happens to be the front running car in this metric with 3.9% still on the road at 200,000.

    There is little doubt electric cars will far exceed 3.9% at 200k and high mile evs will have saved their owners $20k or more in operating costs.

    It does not mean engines and hybrids will go away. I will keep at least one of them but an ev is sure to be my 25k mile per year "commuter" (local vehicle) in the future. Probably when Toyota catches up.

    Electrification is here to stay because it makes sense. Dollars and cents. People doubted Edison, Bell and Henry Ford. Edison electrified America when doubters could not see the vision or understand the technology. One Bell gave us the phone, another gave us the transistor. Ford made mass production viable while ensuring his workers made more than others and could buy a car. These people made America great before it was a meaningless slogan. We have been there for well over a century. Electric cars are just the next step. Who knows Musk, may join the list when our kids reflect on change fifty years from now as they rocket to China in two hours.
     
    #19 rjparker, Apr 24, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2023
  20. jeff_the_computer_guy

    jeff_the_computer_guy Junior Member

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    Wow, guess I pushed a button of some sort.

    I stand corrected on the detail, but the concept is the same. With the angst over $3-5K dealer replacement on a Prius and new car costs (non-electric) at roughly 40K unless you go for a premium car, a 20K replacement is going to be a memorable event for a lot of people.

    Attributing a financial interest is just a nasty, false and rediculous claim. Ad hominem arguments are the weakest...just saying. Being wrong is not in any way the same as being dishonest. I hope you understand how such a response simply impacts your credibility and reputation. Hope you find this helpful. (P.S. don't use Nazi's either..) ;)