Hello all, didn't want to start a new thread on this but might get a bit more attention here. I recently disconnected the maf sensor and forgot to reconnect it and turned the car on after doing some preventative maintenance. Codes p0113 and p0102 came up. P0113 is now gone but p0102 remains. I've researched the topic and found this by user Elektroingenieur - "Mass air flow meter sub-assembly voltage is below 0.2 V for 3 seconds (1 trip detection logic: Engine speed is less than 4000 rpm) (2 trip detection logic: Engine speed is 4000 rpm or more). Tools ||| The confirmation driving pattern adds two steps that aren't in the 2010 version: 11. During normal driving, increase the vehicle speed to 50 mph (80 km/h) [D]. 12. Depress the accelerator pedal fully to increase the vehicle speed to between 62 and 75 mph (100 and 120 km/h) (engine speed of 4000 rpm or more) and then maintain the speed for at least 5 seconds [E]." I've tried these 2 steps but no luck, is there anyone out there with steps 1-10?
Trying just driving it a few more days, likely you'll luck out, drive the pattern it's looking for, without trying, light will go out. I've been there.
The confirmation patterns in question are about making the "permanent" code go away, the one that continues to show up on a scan tool even after the "current" code is gone and the light has gone out. And yes, my P0102 permanent code did eventually go away, after I had happened to make a drive with the right pattern in it, but that was nearly a year later. There are some members who post whole sections from the repair manual; if you look around for threads about P0102, you might find one where somebody already did that. It will likely be from the older version of the manual missing the steps Elektroingenieur added from 2011, but you might be able to cobble the right pattern together from both pieces. Or just find it all at once in a 2011 or later repair manual online: Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat
Still can't get this cleared. I've driven long and short distances on highways and streets. I started thinking..I cleaned out the air filter and it was really dusty, definitely needs to be replaced in upcoming oil change. I also wiped the throttle body pretty good. Could any of these 2 be the reason for this code? I still haven't done the easiest potential fix which is to spray the sensor with some cleaner
This happened after your work, so likely related, either due to the belated disconnect, or maybe (hopefully not) damaged somehow in the process of your work. What was it you were doing again, intake manifold clean out?
Removed IM to check for egr port conditions, also removed the EGR connector pipe. Detached and wiped down the throttle body. Replaced spark plugs added OCC. Permanent, originally the CEL did come on. Code P0113 as well, that code went away the next day and after clearing the DTCs the light never came back on but P0102 is there everytime I check. I tried unplugging the battery for 5 minutes, that didn't help.
Right. Nothing makes a permanent code go away, except for the built-in monitor test finding the right conditions to run, and completing, and deciding it's ok now.
So cleaning or replacing the sensor or a new filter won't immediately work? Why can't the prius just TELL me what it wants..
If the thing you replaced was the problem, then the code will go away as soon as the car can confirm, on 3 drives in a row, that it works now. That means passing the test the car runs on it, and the repair manual describes what that test involves and when the car runs it. When you next turn the car on, after three drives where the test passed, the permanent code goes away. In Techstream, if you have it, there is a utility under the Engine and ECT tab, called All Readiness. You can enter any trouble code, say P0102, and it will tell you about the test status for that code. It can say INCOMPLETE (meaning the test hasn't had its chance to run yet), or NORMAL or ABNORMAL (the test ran, and the result was passing or failing, respectively), or UNKNOWN (the car can't run the test for some reason, such as because there are too many other DTCs that block this test from running). An alternative for the impatient is to first clear DTCs, then make one drive where the confirmation test runs and passes, and then make a "universal trip" (a driving pattern that isn't specific to any one code; it's described in the "DTC CHECK/CLEAR" front part of the "SFI System" section, near where the rest of this stuff is covered). You mean, tell you what would solve the problem it is reporting? Because it doesn't know. The ECM can only tell you what it knows, and the only stuff it can know is what its inputs tell it. If it says P0102, that means its MAF input went below 0.2 volts and stayed there 3 seconds or longer. The ECM doesn't know why that happened. Bad sensor? Bad wiring? Has the ECM's own voltage-measuring circuit gone bad for that input? Somebody has to figure that out. The ECM told you as much as it knows. But it will clear the permanent code as soon as it has seen those three trips in a row where it was able to run the test and see the problem's not there anymore.
Thanks for the detail Chapman, I'm still waiting to get my Techstream software and OBD connector. For now I'll give it a good clean and hope for the best.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Hopefully this clears the code in the next few drives, got a 90 mile round trip tomorrow. On a side note - I accidentally checked the OCC level while the engine was running and the engine starter to rumble and sputter, did I introduce air through the peep hole? Anything to be worried about? Went away as soon as I screwed the dipstick it back in. Other question, I noticed while the engine was running on maintenance mode (before the occ thing) there is a whining/sucking noise coming from the driver side engine area, sort of near the EGR cooler is this common in all 3rd gens? Trying to get a video up but the size is too large.
Sounds just like this but with the engine running right near the EGR area https://youtube.com/shorts/QLOf2oTX_R4?feature=share
Shouldn’t have lasting ramifications, a vacuum leak, rectified. When I first installed my OCC, I test drove around block, thought it sounded a little weird. Lightbulb went on: I’d left the drain tap open. I fixed that, no more problem, or code or whatever.
Finally got rid of the code - I can't tell exactly what did it but I drove fwy speeds and I think replacing the air filter and spraying the sensor might have helped too.
