Good evening everyone. I have been referring to these forums for quite sometime and this is the first time I have had to actually make a post. That being said I would like to thank anyone and everyone for their help in advance... Here is the play by play of my problems. 3/20- Had a business appointment in Dallas TX. After the appointment I was tired and therefore I hopped in the car turned the ac on and passed out for about 2 hours. No big deal. I go to get on the freeway and as soon as i got on the freeway my CEL came on. I pulled to the side of the road and checked my fluids and saw I was a bit low on oil. I proceeded to a walmart and grabbed some oil to top it of. After topping off and starting the car when I would come to a stop the ICE would violently shake and my Hybrid Warning light came on. It was at this point i cycle started the car 4 times to remove the HW light and that did the trick it stayed off completely. I proceeded to an autozone to have my codes checked and all signs pointed to the MAF based on what i was reading on here. I then drove home sadly this was 70 miles but i had to get home. 3/23 I received the new MAF in the mail. Replaced the MAF and also took the airbox completely out. It was after taking the airbox out that i noticed a hose had came loose right under the airbox. It was at that point i though "theres no way its this easy of a fix" BUT...it worked. I buttoned everything up and she was running like a top. I removed the negative terminal to reset the CEL and waited 10 min. After reconnecting the CEL stayed on. I then decided ok maybe its like my nissan was and it needs to be driven 20 miles to reset itself. So i started off down the road and here is where part 2 of my problems began. Going 0-60 everything was working just fine...my ICE showed it was charging the batteries and when i slowed to 42 miles the EV system kicked on as it should. When i was trying to pass a truck and i accelerated over 60mph it was unresponsive almost as if it was topped out it would not go any faster almost immedietly the HW light came back on and i was on the side of the road. I recycled the HW light and turned around to come home. Same thing when getting to higher or trying to accelerate past 60ish mph the car was not having it although i got it home with no HW light coming on. So i fixed the initial problem with a new MAF and reconnecting that hose and somehow created another problem. I will say untill i reconnected that hose today i didnt have any problems at higher speeds when driving the last 70 miles on 3/20. Looking for some help here. Any thoughts before i break down and take it into Toyota.
On a side note i did come across this which after running my VIN does show that it affects my car I'm actually wondering if this caused something to get damaged and is obviously not letting me push the car to hard? Any thoughts?? I'm going in for this fix tomorrow so ill let you guys know what the outcome is: Safety Recall F0R - Remedy Notification - Certain 2012-2014 Prius V - Software Update for Motor Generator ECU and Power Management ECU Description Inside the Hybrid Inverter Assembly is an Intelligent Power Module (IPM) which contains a control board equipped with transistors. In certain Model Year 2012-2014 Prius V vehicles, the current software settings for the motor generator ECU and power management ECU could result in higher thermal stress in certain transistors, potentially causing them to become damaged. If this happens, various warning lights will illuminate and the vehicle can enter a failsafe mode. In rare circumstances, the hybrid system might shut down while the vehicle is being driven, resulting in the loss of power and the vehicle coming to a stop, increasing the risk of a crash.
a couple thoughts, check your 12v health, and rework everything you did to make sure all the connections are right. maybe you'll have to have the codes read at toyota, or get mini vci and do it yourself.
I went in through the service/diagnostics screen on the car by turning the prii to aux then holding down "Car" on the radio and turning the lights on and off 3 times. After doing this I checked the battery voltage and everything looked good. I checked it under load and everything was good with that as well so its not the 12v. I guess when I run it in tomorrow they will probably run the codes anyways when they look at the recall stuff so hopefully that will give me a better indication.