The car starts and runs normal but the ice won't start for the heater I have no ¹heat until the car warms up for driving but in 20 degree weather there's no heat cause the ice won't stay on for the heat basically the ice comes on for driving but not for heating what tells the ice to start from the heater.
Here's a quote from another thread: "Gen 2 and 3 Prius have some supplemental PTC heaters (Electric Heating Elements for those cold mornings). ...the ICE does NOT need to run to provide requested cabin heat. It only needs to run if the engine coolant temp is too low for the given amount of heat demanded. I've confirmed similar behavior on other Toyota/Lexus hybrids and the Altima Hybrid" Learn more by reading the thread: Explaine how the heater works | PriusChat
If you're having problems with not enough heat, the first step seems to be confirming the condition of your electric elements, than looking at ICE coolant system that's used for additional heating.
It does seem odd to me that the engine isn't being run more when there's a demand for heat. Compared to the heating capacity of the coolant-fed heater core (5300 watts), the PTC elements (about 700 watts total when fully in play) are really just a supplement while the engine warms up, and a fairly puny one at that. (I could put it this way: I've never been able to feel anything I'd actually call "heat" coming out of the system, on a cold morning, with only the 700 watts of PTC input before the engine is warm. The one time you can really even notice they're doing anything is if you need to run the front defog while the engine's still cold. Then they do at least make enough difference that you can tell they're working.) I might pull up the ECM data list, or the HVAC data list, in Techstream, and look for any signal that represents a heat demand from the HVAC to the ECM. (I don't remember offhand whether I've seen one, but if this were my question, it's the first thing I'd check for.) Once the engine is at least partly warmed up, then yes, it will shut down, and simply keep pumping the hot coolant through the heater. It will cyclically restart, when the coolant gets cool enough, to heat it back up, and shut down again. But it seems mine will often start the engine right up if I ask for more heat, unless it has just recently shut off and the coolant is quite warm still. -Chap
If you have/could get a digital temperature gauge so you can record cabin temp... Or I've been told Techstream can give you this data... Point being getting verified temperature data is key, especially this time of year because the first cold days in Fall always feel way colder due to our bodies taking time to adjust to first stages of the season's winter weather.
I found this interesting tidbit in the shop manual this morning regarding the PTC heater. I didn't know these cars had them, looks like the PTC heat comes out of one duct.
how long have you owned your car jamie? is this a new occurrence, or ongoing? it could be that the engine has warmed up, but you have a different problem like a thermostat or coolant valve
I don't know what techstream is I was just trying to get a idea where to start looking I don't have a code reader or a scanner to check things out. as far as cabin temp it is 20 outside and feels like 30 inside I drive for 30 min with no noticeable temp change except maybe body heat in the car and possible a slight temp increase from the car like maybe10 degrees but when I drive for a hour some heat starts to come out cabin might get up to 50 to 60 degrees I can then feel the air go cold and warm and cold and warm but it stays about 50. when the outside temp is in upper 30,s to 40,s the heat does decent but at 20 degrees mostly don't work I figure the water is to cold for the amount of time the car runs for normal driving and I do a lot of stop and go driving there for the ice don't run a lot that's why I was thinking the ice is not communicating with heater assuming it does no I posted more details on my comment so are you saying I can only get heat at the feet something else is still wrong I've owned it for 6 month bought used in the summer just started using the heat it works when the outside temp is like 40 and up it gets hot and I got to turn it down I will get the codes checked I know I got some cause the light came on I got them checked once had several like 10 the guy said they were mostly emission codes but before I could get them checked the light went out and I didn't worry about it but the light has come on and off again since then so I know that is the first thing I should have done is check the codes and I will
I find my 2010 engine only runs to supply heat IF the heat control is on auto! If I have the temp on 70 and the fan on 3 or 4 bars and the control not on AUTO my ice only runs to supply energy after the cold engine start up.
that is very odd, i have never used auto. plenty of heat. the temp gauge is poor though. i have to turn it way up, or way down to get it to change much.
Techstream is basically what the dealer uses to figure out what is wrong with your car. You use it with a device that attaches you to the OBD port in your car. It’s not expensive but you do need an old laptop or something. V13.00.022 MINI VCI Single Cable Supports Toyota Diagnostic Software
Because this is your first Winter in this car, do you know anyone with a similar car so you can compare? As for what the "temp" feels like, that's not an accurate way to measure, especially when its the first cold weather of the season you're talking about. You can buy a digital clock with a thermometer on it for $5... If I had to guess, your car is fine and your expectation for more heat may not be possible to achieve... But before that is the case, we need to figure out if this ICE not running with heater on is consistently happening? Clearly, sitting in you car and not driving anywhere when it's super cold out and you just started the car is one thing. But your ICE does run, it's just an issue of when it runs, which is highly variable depending on the vehicles needs. Looking into heater performance after you've been driving for 20 minutes or longer is what matters most if there's a problem that needs to be verified.
Check your coolant level in the radiator, not the overflow bottle to see if the radiator is full. Sometimes a low coolant level causes that. Just don’t open it when it’s hot. You could get burned.
as for the car temp after car is driven after 30 min is still freezing I may not know exact temp but shivering and shaking is freezing in my book I don't need to know exact temp to know something is not working when I say no heat I mean no heat not even warm. no offence I know you are just trying to be sure of specifics. now dtc codes today are p1116 and p1121 I read some on it and my first thought was maybe the control valve but there is heat when the outside temp is higher like in the 40,s so heater core is getting hot water my next thought just now is maybe the radiator is low even though the tank is full so i am going outside to check right now probably should have done that first also forgot to say at last oil change they said a little bit of water spray under car but tank is full
If that's the case, that would explain my own concern with my car? Hope someone confirms that's true!
latest update problem is fixed i didn't realize there is two overflow tanks when i checked the radiator it was low and the overflow was empty so i filled all and the heat works now now i gotta find the leak but thanks for all the help and this is the last update goodbiy
