Installed NewPriusBatteries and got P0A80 again

I am sure you did the 12v battery disconnect to reset codes. I assume you rebuilt the battery with new modules, buss bars, wiring harness, and interconnects from the supplier. If you did not replace one of those parts that could be the issue especially the wiring harness. Each module is being monitored for voltage by the battery ecu so if everything else is new and mounted correctly, then the ecu analog input for module 13 may be bad. I would certainly call the supplier and get their input.

 

The part that goes bad in the ECU is not visible in the images you provided. Usually whiskers grow on the backside of the connector over time. Sometimes they jiggle free, sometimes they don't. The connector can burn but so can the copper traces depending on what's going on inside. Sometimes it is visible, sometimes it is not.



You can see the far bottom trace on this ECU is burnt and not working. Connector looks fine. This ECU will always log a fault for that block because the analog input is destroyed.

 

Pretty clear that module 13 is being read incorrectly. See pics at time 51 and 105 from your video. It should not be off by that much. Could be a loose connection in the harness itself but my money is on the ecu, perhaps the problem from the beginning.



Here is a snapshot of my battery back in April using the Car Scanner app. Note the "difference between maximum and minimum voltage" is only 0.07 volts.

 

Check my post above. Clearly your monitoring is at fault. You could get some electronics cleaner spray and go over the ecu board but your best bet is likely the harness or the ecu. A junkyard or ebay could provide either.

 

To be clear, the harness is brand new with our kits. This, coupled with the same error before and after installation, points to ECU.

Not all ECU damage is immediately or ever visually apparent.

 

Looks very clean I see little bit of schmutz around the crystal 703 but pretty clean. Its led a nice life. If it hit my bench first thing I would look at is the ESR of those electrolytic's I have an original Dick Smith kit meter thats how old I am lol.Still works great. I don't see any puffy's though. You probably have a semiconductor failure there.

Its unlikely the new battery would throw the same code if that makes you feel any better. I know its been alot of work so far.

 

It appears the a/d or the analog mux was throwing in an integer bit plus or minus. Battery Block 13 went from 14.6 to 13.6 while the rest remained close to 14.6 and another time block 13 went from 16.1 to 17.1 vdc while the rest hovered around 16.1. Which corresponds to code P3023.

 

You just need to test the voltages of each cell module. Take all the bus bars off and do that then you will see which one is lowest and replace any in the 6 volt range.

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I would go back to the original ecu as a double check. Odd it was the same on your old modules unless things were loose back then or messed with before. Is it a hard module to get adequate access to #13?

 

P3023 is Battery Block 13 weak which the ECU will probably run home to mama and condemn the whole pack so i think you got it. The ecu should be fine.

Don't feel bad we see this hundreds of times people rebuild there battery's and forget to to take the make sure there all tight tour of all the connectors.

But...are you sure the sensors didn't have rotten ends hiding under there connectors which is a very common problem too. Corrosion likes to run up a wire. Mainly because it has no where else to go. You have to pull the wire coating back a little and see if theirs any green in there.

But good luck though.

 

He has new modules, buss bars and harness.