Issues after ABS module and pump replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Hovik, Mar 25, 2025.

  1. Hovik

    Hovik Junior Member

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    Hello,
    I had the ABS module leak and went ahead and replaced that and the pump myself with OEM. When I completed the job I went to perform the Brake Bleed procedure using a Topdon Artidiag 600 series bidirectional scanner with my wife at the brakes. It worked as normal for a brief period while I was working on bleeding the first (RR) brake. Then it stopped working (pump wasn't running, constant beeping in the cabin). I ended up manually bleeding the brakes and the car drives fine but I cannot get rid of the codes nor can I run/complete the bleed procedure.

    The vehicle is only going straight into READY mode when pushing the button without hitting the brake. There is no accessory mode, and that is the mode needed to do the bleed procedure. Additionally, the rear brake lights two sides and center are all on at all times. I read somewhere about a bad 12v battery, I'm quite sure that's not it as the car runs no problem and the battery is only a year or so old (OEM). Any ideas would be appreciated.

    Current codes are below (and these cannot be truly cleared because I cannot get the car into Accessory mode (engine should be off to clear codes AFAIK).

    C1202 Master Reservoir Level Malfunction
    C1203 ECM/EV Communication Circuit
    C1256 Accumulator Low Pressure
    C1336 Zero Point Calibration of Deceleration Sensor Undone
    C1345 Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning undone
    C1392 Zero Point Calibration of Stroke Sensor undone
    C1451 Motor Drive Permission Malfunction

    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Most of all those codes you got believe it or not would be because of a year old piece of junk battery that's no longer worth it salt Do you know what your battery should be voltage wise sitting at rest? It's a serious question be surprised how many don't It's an AGM type battery which is called advanced Glass mat generally on that type of battery you're looking for like 12.3 to 12.7 pretty steady to be in the right range of where you need to be so sitting at 12 volts you're low and lower than 12 you're getting really low so trying to bleed the brakes if you were able to see the factory manual and things like that I think you'd find out that it's recommended you have a battery tender or something holding your 12 volts besides the car battery by itself. So maybe this information will help you and you will get a backup charger on the battery in the trunk not up front at the red connector at the back right at the battery trunk open plugged into the wall maybe on the 8 amp setting or lower clear all the codes start to bleed procedure again and see what happens sounds to me like you're going dead with your year old battery that's in perfect condition You don't know how many times that's been said here probably 10,000 and $7,000 or better of those times the batteries at fault It's not quite enough to keep everything on for exactly what the person's trying to do or the person is not very quick at doing the procedure which is probably mostly the case once you do this a few times it only takes a couple minutes these people that spend hours bleeding the brakes well I guess it happens You can think a lot into this stuff.
     
  3. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Did you do anything with the pedal when you replaced the module? Like adjustments?
     
  4. Hovik

    Hovik Junior Member

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    I got that one figured out (the rear brake lights staying lit all the time. The brake light sensor that activates when the brake pedal is depressed required a slight adjustment since the brake shaft going through the firewall to the actuator was a adjusted slightly different than the original. So that problem is resolved. However it is still throwing codes C1336, C1345, C1368, and C 1451.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah I usually when I have them out side by side I make the one I'm putting in match the one I took out any length and pedal stroking adjustment and all that I try to set it right there with them sitting the side by side with my metal ruler and all that measure from the same place on both of them and get them squared away for I put them in so I can see that that's possible and now it's done The other codes I recognize but you'll go through them and get them one by one or something this is a Gen 3 so I don't get to bleed a lot of those this is also the one where you were better replace the two parts or forever hold your peace You might be doing it again.
     
  6. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    And your brake lights are still on? And it’s going directly into ready mode still after the adjustment?

    Maybe bad fuse? Battery like @Tombukt2 said? If it didn’t go through the entire bleeding routine with your scan tool you should probably try bleeding again with tech stream or another scan tool that has the capability. Not all do. I tried a $3,000 one at a shop and it couldn’t do squat. Thinkcar thinkdiag was able to properly do the bleeding procedure though.

    The pedal adjustment is what I had an issue with when I did that replacement. You gotta resolve that first. Jumping directly into ready mode is like being painted in a corner.