Knock sensor replacement search discrepancy

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by PLVNET, Dec 12, 2022.

  1. PLVNET

    PLVNET Junior Member

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    Hello. I’m new here. Just picked up a 2007 Prius from my brother. It has 91k miles on it and I’m trying to make the dashboard “Christmas tree” lights go away. I’ve run the gamut of trying to research this myself, but I think I’m in need of advice from people who have been down this road.

    The first time I had the vehicle scanned at O’Reilly’s, It showed now codes but yesterday, my friend scanned it with his much more basic OBD scan tool and I got the codes $7E8, $7EA, $7EB. This led Google to show me stuff about Knock sensors. I have replaced the air filter and added some octane boost to my gas to see if that would work it out, however the car lost acceleration power again this morning taking my daughter to school.

    So, I decided to pick up a knock sensor and try swapping that out, but the results I get are confusing. It will initially show me knock sensors for between $20-30 available locally, but when I input the make and model on the Auto Zone it Advance Auto website it tells me that the $20 sensor “won’t fit my vehicle” and takes me to one that looks EXACTLY the same for $170 that will supposedly fit.

    Is this just a case of marketing loonies trying to find one of those “suckers born every minute”? Or is there really a difference?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!
    Revisit oreillys, autozone, pepboys, etc., to use a less basic OBD2 scan tool, once you know the codes (DTCs), post them in this thread.

    Many will use a 'mini-vci' cable and techstream (dealer technician software) installed on a winblows device (or you can emulate).

    FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Those don't look much like trouble codes to me.

    Even if you had a super-rudimentary scan tool that didn't show the received codes in standard form, they would still be four hex digits, not three, and if you had those, you could translate the first hex digit to the standard letter/digit yourself, like this:

    [​IMG]

    Those three-digit things look more like they might be addresses of the ECUs that were reporting codes. Not nothing, but not the codes you're looking for, either.
     
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  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    First suggestion is do NOT buy any parts - yet.

    The amazing thing about the internet is the ability to share huge amounts of information.

    The terrible thing about the internet is alot of that info is wrong.

    If you connect a scantool to the OBD2 data port on your car & see $7E8 or $7EB, those are computer (ecu) ADDRESS codes. This allows the scantool to recognize that "hey, here is the Engine Control Module (ECM)".

    A DIAGNOSTIC trouble code (DTC) that uses the OBD2 standard has 5 alphanumeric digits. The first is always a letter that denotes its general category. P - powertrain (engine, transmission, hybrid drive), C - chassis (ABS, traction- stability control), B - body (A/C, door locks, windows), U - networks (data bus communications). That 1st letter is followed by 4 digits that give more details about that specific code.

    Some codes are standardized (defined by the SAE) and therefore are the "same" for (most) all cars. Some are defined by the auto maker and can be very different between brands (or models). (for example, if you did have a problem with a knock sensor on any car, the ECM might set a P0325 code. But a P1325 can mean something different for each car brand).

    Different ecu's (and functions) have different address codes (that doesn't really matter anyway). Very basic OBD2 scanners have limited access to only the ECM. A Gen2 Prius (2004-2009) has 15 or 16 ecu's total.

    You might consider getting a more capable scantool that can "talk" to all of the ecu's on your car.

    One option is to get TechStream (Toyota's pc based diagnostic software) + a VCI cable that connects to the car OBD2 port. Legit versions are fairly pricey. Bootleg versions are on ebay and amazon but can be quite sketchy to get working correctly (use the search function to learn about Techstream).

    Another option is to get an app + bluetooth device that turns a smartphone into a scantool.

    You can read this thread that reviews several choices.

    https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

    Some are fairly limited but have their uses. Others can do more but the choices can be confusing - esp to someone with limited experience. Read and ask questions.

    Now, when it comes to parts. You (mostly) "get what you pay for". I fix cars for a living. I have wasted way too much of my life dealing with cheap, crappy, AfterMarket parts. Parts that don't fit right. Parts that fail after a short time. Parts that don't work at all.

    I am tired of "installing new problems" on the cars I work on. I only recommend OE, or a limited selection of AM brands. Usually brands that supply the OE's (Denso, NGK, Bosch, Valeo, etc). And only parts purchased from a "reputable" supplier (NOT ebay or amazon- counterfeits are a known problem).

    That said. Once you have a scantool and get the correct codes, having a particular code doesn't ALWAYS mean "buy this part". I don't care HOW many people on the web say so. Firing the "parts cannon" at a problem can get frustrating and expensive right quick.

    You should get a copy of Toyota's service manual which has diagnostic tests for the codes. Again search the forum here, or google out there.





    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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