I usually get around 430-450 miles on full tank. I had to change my battery the other day and my display has it at 600 miles...what is going on and how do I fix this? Or is 600 the actual miles.
If you pop in a lithium hv battery, you’ll get 60% more range. That works out to be 960 miles per fill up for ya, a person who swapped to lithium hv battery once said that to me here.
The temporary power loss probably erased the MPG history that is used to estimate the miles to empty, so it went back to some factory default value that isn't similar to your own driving pattern. To fix it, just drive. As new driving history builds up, it should gradually return to normal.
I'd like to see that 960 mi never happened I don't care what's inside the factory case behind the seat kryptonite maybe
Remember the Toyota Prius is a low kilowatt alternative that does everything quite well it's not perfect
Any time you disconnect the 12 volt the car loses all the “volatile” memories, any that require that voltage: radio presets, trip meters are a couple. I’ve found too, for the next several start-ups the car does an odd rev up, recalibrating throttle response I’d speculate. Google automotive memory savers, for workarounds. They provide voltage by some means during the battery swap. I’ve used a memory saver cable, plugs in between OBD port and my jump pack.
One can accomplish the same by connecting a suitable battery or DC power supply to the jump port in the fuse box while replacing the car's 12-volt battery.
Yeah I put this: on the flat in driver's footwell, then connect one of these: Between the pack and OBD port. It only has the 12 volt pins, which are constantly on.
Or, if one is a bit bolder, just start up the car, remove the old battery while the car is still in READY mode, and install the new battery. Nothing gets erased. Before I tried it, there had already been discussion here bout the fact the Prius seems to continuing operating normally when the 12V is removed. Because of my power supply engineering experience that SMPSs often require at least a certain minimum load to stay in stable regulation, I did turn on the headlights first, to increase the 12V load above the basic load of all the engine and system ECUs and devices in the car. But this was likely not necessary. Not everyone here is comfortable taking this risk. For one thing, it is essential that the loose 12V positive cable and terminal assembly not touch any grounded metal during the exchange. The ideas mentioned in the several posts just before this are certainly less risky.
Truth be told, I purposely disconnect about every three years, when I look at the brakes (better safe than sorry). What gets reset is minor. I’ve noticed an unusual rev up, for the next few start ups, which might be beneficial; I’m guessing it’s testing throttle response.
^ I still haven't gotten around to doing my own brakes, despite saying I would for several years now. But based on the past discussions here, that is absolutely one where I'd first disconnect the battery and let all the volatile memories vanish. The other vehicle, the one most exposed to winter salt, is the one that really needs for me to learn DIY brake work.
