Mixed Info About Inverter Pump Replacement

The Gen 2 inverter cooling system comes with a bleed valve. If I had just drained and refilled some coolant, I can't think of a reason I wouldn't use it.

 

The system comes with a bleed valve for a reason. If you have let coolant out, say to replace the pump, and then refilled the coolant, there may be air inside. Use the bleed valve and the procedure in the repair manual to get the air out.

 

Easiest bleed valve I've ever used... Just connect a small hose from the bleed valve to the reservoir and open it up and wait for the bubbles to go away. Very well designed!

 

yes, that would be the recommended proceedure. you can''t bleed the system before removing and installing the pumps.

 

The rusted bracket is identical to the bracket that will be already installed on the new pump. Most people remove the new pump from the new bracket and just install the new pump on the old bracket. Yes, your old bracket is impressively rusty. Yes, the threaded holes appear to still be there, but the integrity of the bracket is in question. If you're up for it, then remove the old bracket, and then install the entire new assembly. If you're not up for it, then do it the same way as most do it....new pump on old bracket and it is what it is.

 

Sand the rusted area with sand paper to remove any high spots then use some rust converter on the sanded/rusted spits it will turn the rusted areas black and keep them from rusting in the future. Then install the new pump and proceed to bleed it and enjoy your new pump ;-)

EDIT: use the new bracket suggested above if available.

 

Once you replace the pump, put coolant back in.

Do not run the car without coolant.

When you put the coolant in, you use the bleed valve and get the air out. It's part of that job.

 

Yes... and if you don't want to waste coolant you can clamp the hoses and swap pumps... It's way less hassle that way!

 

what priuscamper said. If you clamp the lines only a bit of fluid will be lost. I cheated and added an ounce or two of water to bring level between the lines. The bigger pain is having one of the mounting bolts break off leaving a stub in the chassis. Then you better find someone to help drill out the broken bit.

 

Well, the bracket is attached by two fasteners. There's a 6mm bolt that goes into the side of the frame rail. I think it also holds the bracket for the 3-way coolant valve. That bolt usually comes right out, no problem.

The other fastener is a vertical 6mm stud and nut that is at one corner of the underhood fuse box. That nut is "always" seized and has snapped every time. Tried a number of techniques, still breaks. Now I leave it alone and reuse the old bracket- if possible.

Or break it. Then move the new bracket a little over and use a self drilling sheet metal screw.



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