2010, original owner, 103k. Never a problem. I understand the 12v could go at any time, but I've heard that there would be warnings. Never had any warnings. Always a dependable start, with great mileage and performance. No indications on dash or power button. Went to start in AM after a 60 hour stop, and no start. Got complete dash display. Checked 7 hours later with same results. Under hood voltage check was 9.74. Could I have left something on? I can bring battery in house and charge at 2 amps, and try again, or would that be a waste? If I'm buying, which one. Need to do this quick. Thanks all.
Real quick: just head for the dealership and pick up the battery from their parts department. For giggles, also ask about installed prices; sometimes it's not much, or gratis install. I'll just copy-and-paste my battery notes: ---- OEM battery info (measurements taken directly): Battery id: S46B24R GS YUASA length: 9 3/8" (238 mm) width: 4 7/8" (124 mm) height: 8" (203 mm) (plus posts) post dia's: Pos: 13 mm (approx) Neg: 10 mm (approx Weight: 310 ---- Optima Yellow Top: Group Size: GR#51JIS: 46B24R CCA: 450 CA: 575 Length: 9.272 in Width: 5.024 in Height: 8.885 in web page: ---- Canada Tire battery: MotoMaster Eliminator Ultra AGM Product Number: #010-5122-6 Manufacturer's Product Number: ELU-S46B24R (rebadged Exide battery) ---- Above Canadian Tire battery is rebadged: Exide FP-AGM51JIS ---- Bosch Premium Performance Battery Group Size 51 Part # 51-440BAGM ---- ACDelco ACDB24R Advantage AGM Automotive BCI Group 51 Battery I replaced my OEM with the Optima for what it's worth. But the dealership's OEM battery is not a bad choice either.
yes. even if you drained it by accident, a 7 year old battery is toast. also, batteries plus bulbs carries the correct duracell.
If you have a Pep Boys near you they carry the Bosch battery and installation is free. Just make sure they connect the vent tube. The Bosch battery has one of the better warranties (4 years).
Went to dealer and got YUASA oem for $190 plus tax minus $10 dealer coupon, which I didn't ask for, but parts man threw in. Have dealt with this store over 20 years. Good deal, I thought. Do I need to put on charger, and if so, how long, and how many amps? Thanks all.
It wouldn't hurt. Owner's Manual says 4 amp max, page 563: I would use a "smart" charger, one that monitors the battery as it charges, goes through a charge regimen. Those can typically be left on indefinitely. It'd typically take 6~8 hours to run to completion.
I was gonna do it, but I checked, and it's at 12.95. Parts man said they're fully charged, and he's right. I'm installing tomorrow. Really appreciate your sharing your knowledge
12.95 volts sounds like it just came off a charger; it should drop a bit over the next few days, say to around 12.7. So yeah, it almost certainly just came off a charger.
More to the story...Went to install. Front door responded to my touch. Rear door did not open. Hatch did NOT open. Figured power was needed. Went under hood and jump started from wife's Camry. Cool, right? With engine running, hatch would not open. Crawled into hatche, and with GREAT difficulty, pulled inner release to open hatch. Don't let anyone tell you this is easy. Installed new 12 volt, with no difficulty, except it weighs a ton. Car starts right up. Hatch WILL NOT OPEN. Could this have drained the original battery? Will call dealer tomorrow for advice. Any thoughts?
Maybe with the battery out the lock/unlock protocols reset, with battery disconnected?? Page 48 of owner's manual:
Never tried that before. I'll give it a go. By the way, after jumping, and leaving it running with the jumper cables connected for about an hour, then shutting down, and uninstalling, the bad 12 volt read 2.67. Probably just a soft surface charge, right?
I hope you didn't reverse the polarity. Did you put black to chassis and red to power? If not - that battery is toast. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Polarity good. All good. ALL solved. It was, as Mendel suggested, the reset of the lock/unlock protocol on the key fob, causing the hatch not to open. I cannot thank him enough for saving me much aggravation.
Just to add...polarity HAD to be right. Note that with all the so called hatch problems, car did start right up after new battery installed. Couldn't happen with reversed polarity. Also, where I said bad 12 volt read read 2.67 after uninstall, I mistyped. It was 12.67. I was pretty much zonked out by the time I was updating that entry.
