Need your help (possibly my gasket is burned)

30,000 miles ago, where did you get the spark plugs you put in? What make and model of spark plug were they?

Today, did you check the gap of the spark plug, and if so, what did it measure?

 

Run the car up and down the street in the evening hour or two before bedtime whatever get it warmed up a good bit running up and down the street pull it in somewhere where it's you can pull the plugs easily when you're ready in front of the garage door whatever and park it Go in for the night in the morning preferably early go out and pull the spark plugs It only takes a minute You don't have to take the wiper tray out this isn't that car when you pull the plugs out pull them out with a good spark bug wrench and flip it over and look at the plugs with magnifying glasses or a loupe like a jeweler uses and look at the plug ends the part that's sticking in the engine so that's from the end of the threads to the tip when you look at that you're going to see little teen tiny water droplets they're very small and then look at the other three plugs. The ones you see the condensation on is a problem If you're brave enough touch your tongue to the condensation I'll touch your finger to the condensation and touch your tongue that should be glycol you're tasting now breathe open glycol jug and take a whiff with your nose you'll smell it and taste it in the back of your mouth That's why you're misfiring so your gasket like you said is the problem.

 

No mention of oil level in my quick glance at symptoms... 2 quarts low can cause misfire code. You'll find out soon enough about the spark plugs once you look inside with camera. I'd put my bet on a valve problem if everything checks out, but that's pretty rare with type of engine.

 

In am. Morning that moisture will collect in minute droplets on tips. Starting car can rattle n miss a few seconds . Then runs fine all day.

 

Okay so we'll rule the spark plugs out for the moment they look gray brownish about 48,000s gap or so they got about 50,000 mi on them generally speaking something like that not too bad one a little oily not an issue shouldn't be a pre-igniter. On my personal '07 car which I was just getting ready to make a post on now I probably won't I've been chasing some pre-ignition in an otherwise perfectly running car with no codes no lights no history everything intact on the car catalytic converter and all of it I run 88 blue fuel from Sheetz almost exclusively The cars never had anything else in it since I've had it maybe once. I've been chasing some spark knock in this particular '07 car it sounded like a hand hammer to wok factory. Was down inside my engine working overtime from light acceleration to heavier acceleration I mean it was just rattling away I sprayed the engine was going to fall out of the car after checking every connection every air connection making sure the throttle body the MAF and all of that is clean as you can whistle still spark knock I ordered a set of fuel injectors from rebuild place that I have ordered a few sets before that actually made no difference on the cars they were installed on. But on this car ordering the same generation to injectors that I ordered for the others The minute these injectors were installed the spark knock vanished My code for my lower oxygen sensor also came back but I was expecting that No issue there that needs to be dealt with My fuel trims look okay in the freeze frame day to now they didn't look horribly bad before but I had a lot of spark knot so I figured there was a volume problem a pattern problem something as soon as I change the injectors the car runs better the spark knock is gone you can hear a trace of it if you floor it going up an incline which is what's supposed to happen and then the knock sensor takes over the computer takes over whatever. So that might be worthy of a shot they were only $49 I mean it's not like I'm paying 50 bucks an injector or something which is easy to do by looking at the ends where the pencil or the spray nozzle or whatever you want to call it on the injector the ones I took out were green look the same but the end sticking into the gasket spraying into the cylinder we're not so clean I even tried to clean them with extreme chemicals and all that and they still were kind of dirty especially compared to what I was putting in The minute the injectors went in takes all the 5 minutes literally started the car and went for a drive right up and down my street where this car will usually just be rattling away and nothing been like that for 4 days now I've also gone from a rock solid 40 41 miles to the gallon I'm two tanks of gas on the set injectors in the car sitting out in the driveway at 57.1 now that will not turn to 570 mi on a tank of gas I can guarantee you It never has I don't care what the MFD says generally I get around 4:00 and maybe 500 mi on an extremely good week out of a tank of gas and that is extremely rare It's more like 375 to 4 and a quarter no matter how I'm driving at this stage of the game I'm really not running super speeds but super quick I make moves in three or four turns before the cop behind me even knows of three streets over naturally it's not just comes that way oh well I haven't used the turn signal in 20 years but anyway I would give that a shot the injectors might fix you right up. Most people have never changed them there have been a few here that talked about it and they did some kind of a test and solve cars ran better and most people not because they didn't have the right problems or whatever and I don't know how to associate the better gas mileage with better fuel injectors that are going to squirt more fuel you would think I guess maybe they do it more efficiently as they start to clog up they can't dwell and operate as properly as they did when they were new I'll go for that. So that may be a thing It will certainly be worth it to try on a 200,000 mi old Prius that hasn't had much fuel cleaner and all that sort of thing done to it a whole lot It might make a huge difference I also rolled my spark plugs back this car had SK16 u11s in it My go-to plug for most of my Toyota engines are the SK20 u11 or PR 11 or whatever's fitting for the model engineer plugging up The plugs didn't make any difference in the pre-ignition but that gets me in the heat range that I like to have my engine in and then the injectors squashed the pre-ignition immediately as soon as they went in it was gone still gone now and 57.1 showing on the MFD after I don't know 150 mi.

 

I'll try to put up a link in a minute they're like one of the number one sellers on Amazon they were $49 for a set of four they have the factory original numbers stamped in the plastic they look like either very well rebuilt injectors or quite well new manufactured injectors I can't tell It says in the ad that they're supposed to be remanufactured cleaned up pressurized checked all that nonsense they did not come with the orange rubbers on them they came with black and I put my original orange back on my thinking is usually the colored rubber that the companies use like Toyota in them are a step up from carbon black or Buna inn or whatever was the thing at the time. And the seals that come with the remanufactured injector are bought in bags of 100 from any old rubber company other than that they seem to work fine and the ones I took out were very dirty Just looking at the ends I don't really have any way to test them and don't do all that. I have a friend that runs a place up the street that does diesel fuel injection and he can put them on his little test table real quick and just tell me they look like crap or they don't then I just throw them away so I know that one or two of them look like crap or they all did or something just for information purposes. But I figure it $300,000 mi my goodness would seem like kind of a no-brainer. I know with carburation you're constantly cleaning carburetors and playing with those things that's your fuel in an older car so I figure probably in a fuel injection system where all you have is a pump and injectors and some electricity the injectors might be good to change at this kind of mileage. And if you're in a generation 3 of course you can check the fuel pump and replace it that high mileage in a Gen 3 I probably just do that because of the crappy gas we've had for the last 10 years It's easy to access take 45 minutes to change and the part is cheap You can get it from almost anywhere fuel pumps are not mission critical like that one that's built by anybody'll last $100,000 miles almost or better My Toyota's generally go two or 300,000 without a change but if something comes up I will change it in a heartbeat to eliminate it for the $65 it cost you got to be kidding me

 

https://a.co/d/gLrs44N. The injectors