New owner (G3), two questions. 1. Is it possible to get OUT of "P" without starting up the works? I need to move Prius about a coupla feet in my garage in order to get my motorcycle out, in the past I've just put car into neutral, let handbrake off and leaned on the bumper but that doesn't seem possible with Prius. Q2. Car was built November 09 and when I purchased it in September 2011 (22000 km) I found it had a replacement battery fitted. Thinking the charging circuit might be low I checked the voltage at the ciggi lighter socket and was surprised to see 14.6v. I came across a post here which mentioned the float voltage as 13.8V. At 14.6v the battery is well into the "gassing" area which makes me wonder if the original boiled dry. Wondering if anyone here knows if 14.6V is within Toyota's spec?
if something was wrong with the battery.. it wouldn't be hitting 13v... yours seems fine. you have to boot the car to move it... period.. once it's on, you can use N... but don't leave it in N for long periods of time because the accessory power will drain the car since it can't charge in N... (seems like that problem wouldn't apply in your case... just keep it in mind)
No, power up the Prius and put it in EV mode to prevent the ICE from starting up. You don't have to push the car, just drive it. Once you're done moving it, park and power off. 14.6v is fine.
Thanks for your replies, looks like the west coast was still awake, Im seven hours in front of you, didn't think I'd get a reply until tomorrow. I considered EV mode but thought the ICE would warm up anyhow (it's about 20C here). The battery is a sealed lead acid and the vent manifold has been drilled and what looks like the OEM vent tube jammed into it. The battery has a sticker on it stating "do not exceed 14.8V", I thought 14.6 was getting a bit close. Again thanks.
Woopsies...posted twice. Second edit, CPRO, clicked on your link to PIHV, bloomin amazing!!! As you Americans are known to say......."Oh my God"
Just for the record, what is the manufacturer and model of the battery? Also, was there some kind of adapter to fit the OEM wiring with "pencil" type clamps to the larger post sizes found on most batteries? If there is some kind of shade-tree mechanic, jury rig arrangement, I'd be a little leery. FWIW, it sounds like the voltage you read, 14.6V, was with the car in Ready, which means you were reading the output of the DC-to-DC converter feeding the 12V buss, and not the battery output. Typically, 12V battery readings, best taken after the car sits overnight, are between 12 (replacement indicated) and 13 volts.
The Prius 12V charging system will sometimes charge at approximately 14.6V if it determines the battery is low; if the battery is up charging Voltage will drop to 13.8 or so. As mentioned by V8Cobra you can get the car into N without going to the Ready mode. It will shift from P to N or back again in the ON mode (two pushes of the Power button without pushing on the brake).
On US market cars, 20C (68F) is a critical threshold for EV. Below that, it will reject EV but give you a few seconds to move the car before the ICE starts. Above that, it will stay in EV until you reach 10 mph. In many non-US markets, the threshold temperatures seem to be much lower.
Rokeby, the battery is a local, "Supercharge" and comes with the smaller Japanese posts, there are at least two other manufacturers here who produce batteries to fit Prius terminals but nobody seems to provide for the external venting. I never persisted in reading the charge voltage for more than a minute or so, Ill leave the voltmeter connected and see what happens. I'm not doubting the battery, I've had a high current load test done and it holds voltage fine under heavy the discharge, I'm looking for reasons the OEM battery failed after 18 months, Japanese batteries are usually pretty good.
Typically, the OEM battery service life is ~4 years. However, it has a history here of early failure after being deeply discharged, especially to the extent the car won't start. Two or three such instances and it is done. Most often, the deep discharge results from leaving one of the interior lights on overnight... You know the drill, door or rear hatch left ajar, a curious child playing with a light switch, Even the little hatch area light can do it. There is no way of knowing what the previous owner did. But this would be a reasonable guess. Extended service in both high and low ambient temps also shortens OEM battery life. Nothing that you've said would suggest a problem with the 12V charging circuitry. Hope this helps.
Is there any thing, or setting, to ensure that no electrical drain is left on overnight? Or simply after dark to take a peek at the car to make sure no light is left on?
My 2004 Prius (in a cooler climate - CT) failed at 194,000 miles. It cost me $2000 to replace it with a re-manufactured battery from Remanufactured Hybrid Vehicle Battery Packs which was about $0.01 per mile. This is a very reasonable maintenance cost as it is comparable to what is normally spent on brakes (not in a Prius) or for tires. My original 12v battery is still providing good service at 7.5 years old, but it has never been fully discharged. I have purchased the new drop-in replacement Optima Yellow Top ($170 with a coupon) and will put it in soon as a preventative measure for the coming cold weather. JeffD
Looks like "complete discharge" is the answer, there is about a two month period from when the car went back to the leasing company to coming into my posession, anything could have happened. Thanks everyone for your interest. Next day edit. Drove about 5kms round trip today, voltage 14.6 when I left home and 13.7 when I returned, didn't see when it changed.
