P0101 and also Flickering Headlight

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by uneven_cyclist, Mar 19, 2025.

  1. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    I have a P0101 code and a flickering right headlight on my 2008 Prius. I've been trying a few steps to resolve those issues, but wanted to check in here to get some input, especially about the P0101.

    The car has had a replacement (non-oem) catalytic converter for a few years and an 02 sensor spacer that I installed because I was getting P0140 codes.

    I would be grateful for input.

    • P0101 / MAF code.
      • I replaced the sensor with a cheap generic sensor from eBay
      • I replaced the 90 degree 02 sensor spacer and also the 02 sensor itself, thinking that maybe these were somehow causing the P0101.
      • Considering cleaning the oem Denso MAF sensor and reinstalling it as a next step.
      • I verified that there are no cracks in the big plastic/rubber hose and that it's securely attached.
      • Car has a new air filter and cabin air filter, and I verified that engine air filter is securely installed, rubber seal is fitted well.
    • Flickering headlight
      • Right headlight only.
      • I replaced the battery a couple days ago at autozone and noticed that voltage is a bit lower than the 12.6 idle/11.5 loaded range that I'm seeing listed around the internet as a good range.
      • I can't remember exactly what the range was on my car's diagnostic display, but maybe 11.2 and 12.0 or something like that?
      • The car is frequently starting with the issue where the dash lights don't come on, and the right headlight doesn't come on until I restart the lights a few times.
      • When it does come on it flickers, at least until the car has been running for a bit.
      • Would all this maybe be because the battery was sitting on the shelf for awhile and needs a long drive to get up to full charge?
      • More likely an issue with the headlight itself? Or both perhaps?
      • The headlights are generally dim, although I don't know if this is just a limitation of the lights or if it's an indicator of an issue with the electrical system/battery.
    I would be grateful for suggestions on next steps with either or both of these issues.

    Thanks all!
     
    #1 uneven_cyclist, Mar 19, 2025
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2025
  2. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    1.This is a wrong decision. Formation of the fuel-air mixture is a responsible task for normal engine operation.
    For responsible tasks, it is better to use original parts.

    The MAF (Mass Air Flow) meter is a sensor that helps the ECM calculates the amount of air flowing through the throttle valve. The ECM uses this information to determine the fuel injection time and provide a proper air–fuel ratio. Inside the MAF meter, there is a heated platinum wire exposed to the flow of intake air. By applying a specific current to the wire, the ECM heats this wire to a given temperature. The flow of incoming air cools the wire and an internal thermistor, changing their resistance. To maintain a constant current value, the ECM varies the voltage applied to these components in the MAF meter. The voltage level is proportional to the air flow through the sensor and the ECM interprets this voltage as the intake air amount. If there is a defect in the sensor or an open or short circuit, the voltage level will deviate from the normal operating range. The ECM interprets this deviation as a defect in the MAF meter and sets a DTC. Example: If the voltage is more than 2.2 V at idle or less than 0.4 V at idle off, the ECM interprets this as a defect in the MAF meter and sets a DTC.

    Perform checks according to the procedure.
    https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip0101.pdf

    2.What kind of headlights do you have?
     
  3. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Thanks MAX2, I'll try cleaning the Denso (original/OEM) sensor and reinstalling it and then seeing if that clears the code.

    Still open to other ideas and suggestions as well if anyone else has thoughts either on the battery/flickering headlight, or whatever else, thanks!
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Sounds like you may have HID headlights That's a completely different problem more than likely than just your battery If you seeing 12 volts 12 volts should run the headlights 11.9 and 11.6 and all of that is under 12 volts so communication errors can rear their ugly head pretty quickly for an AGM battery you're looking 12 3 to 12/7 at rest Just sitting there on any day You start going below 12.2 and downward and you're in areas where you probably don't want to be You might want to get that sussed out first and then work with the headlight always use denso sensors like MAF even if you have to go to another car and take one out because you don't want to pay the $90 or whatever it is I can usually go get three or four of them very quickly I have a box full of them here The cheap no name junk is in a separate box I usually try and use denso same with the spark plugs.
     
  5. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    I would also clean the engine throttle body bore (the area where the blade is - when the throttle is closed).

    It might be useful to look at the ECM data with your scantool and see what the MAF sensor is reporting under what conditions.

    Here's some values from my 2006, which are taken "near sea level"(around 30 inches-Hg BARO). If you're much more than 1000' elevation, you should correct the data for differences in barometric pressure. Screenshot_20240615-223147.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  6. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Thanks all for your replies! Still troubleshooting. After getting a new battery and going on a roadtrip (several hours each way), the voltage is at 11.6 loaded (lights on) and 12.2 with lights off on the diagnostic display. After spraying about half a can of MAF cleaner onto the original Denso MAF sensor and reinstalling it, the check engine light did not come on for about 150-200 miles and then it came back on. Then it went off again after 150 miles and stayed off for another 200 miles and came back on again.

    As a next step, considering that the voltage seems a bit on the low side (?) I am thinking that I might try exchanging the battery at AutoZone, based on the thought that maybe it had been sitting for awhile and that it had lost power while on the shelf or something?

    For the MAF, I am thinking I could try finding some Denso sensors at a junk yard as one commenter suggested and then also cleaning the throttle body as another commenter suggested, and just keep chipping away at things.

    The dash lights routinely don't come on and so I've been using the method of opening the door, pushing power without the brake pedal engaged, turning on the lights, and then completing the start-up process, which usually seems to bring them back on again.

    I'll share updates if I get some of these issues figured out, thanks all.
     
  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Then you have a third problem. The CM (combination meter - the part that displays speed, gear, selection, etc) is faulty and needs at least one capacitor replaced. See this thread if you're interested in DIY, or else Texas Hybrid Batteries offers a fix or swap service at a reasonable price. Lifetime guarantee.

    Your workaround is destroying your battery by keeping it constantly in a discharged state. Stop doing that procedure and fix the CM.
     
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  8. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    A working car produces much higher voltage from the converter during operation, on average 14-14.5V.

    Have you measured these values on the battery with the car turned off or on?
     
  9. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Thanks dolj for the tip about the capacitor, that makes a lot of sense because it has become almost constantly necessary to go through that intermediate step in order to start the dash lights. I've become fairly good at it at this point in terms of being able to go through the sequence on successfully on the first try 90% of the time now, but I grasp the concept that each start still requires more power than a typical start should in order to go through that intermediate step.

    MAX2, I was measuring voltage with the car off -- i.e. push start button twice without holding the brake pedal, then go into diagnostic mode and look at voltages on the display with lights off, and again with lights on. I have not yet measured voltages with the car running.

    I'll look into repairing or swapping out the Combination Meter, likely through the swap out approach with Texas Hybrid Batteries, or maybe see if there's a local repair person who might be able to do it in my city for a reasonable fee.

    This is a big step tho in terms of chasing down (at least on of) the problem(s).

    I'll share updates about how things go as time goes on, might take some time to get any more work done since the next step would require ordering parts or scheduling a repair (I'm not really eager to take on an electronics repair job DIY) but I'll update after things progress etc.

    Thanks All!
     
  10. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Update on the thread...I found a technician to replace the capacitor on the combination meter (thank God) and it seems to be working fine, have not experienced any issues with the dash lights for several days. Still having odd electrical issues with the car pretty much every time I drive, whether it's flickering headlights or today, had a clicking noise and rear brake lights and front turn signals flashing on and off issue along with display lights flashing on and off all at the same time in sync with the clicking noise.

    I did go to the diagnostic display while the car was running and found that the voltage was alternating between 13.9 and 14.0 while the car is running.

    I do suspect the battery because, although I've seen some of this kind of stuff in the past (e.g. the occasional headlight flicker, the occasional clicking noise with a low battery) a lot of the issues started when I replaced the battery a couple of weeks ago.

    I've noticed that headlights will routinely lose power while driving -- one or the other of them will turn off and then I'll have to switch the lights off and back on and then they'll both come back on.

    Thinking a next step might be to return the battery to autozone and (1) verify that I got a compatible battery and (2) install a new battery that hopefully isn't defective/depleted etc.?

    Also, random side question...would it be a good idea for me to replace the headlights with LED lights or something instead of HID lights which another commenter mentioned is probably what I have?

    Will keep folks posted on how it all goes and feel free to share any other ideas if you have them, thanks all.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    This tells you nothing except that the inverter is charging the battery and the battery is more charged than discharged. I think you're chasing your tail focussing on the 12 V battery.
    This almost certainly indicates that both ballasts and HID bulbs have failed. The failed ballasts will also most likely have damaged the HID bulbs so you need to replace the ballasts and the HID bulbs if you wish to fix this. Replacing the HID bulbs with LEDs is also an option if you can find any LED bulbs approved for on-road use.
     
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  12. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Thank you dolj, I appreciate your help in narrowing down the issue with the headlights, I'll replace the HID bulbs and ballasts.

    Any idea what might be causing the other electrical issues -- clicking, lights blinking on and off etc? I did notice that these became more frequent after replacing the 12v battery a couple of weeks ago. Beyond that I don't really have any ideas, and learning about things like the CM issue are definitely why I come here!
     
  13. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    I resolved those issues (clicking/blinking lights) by disconnecting the 12v and reconnecting it to reset everything. So...maybe also possible(?) that one of the connections on the battery was just loose or something? Not sure on that one but throwing it out there as a possibility. Thanks all for your ideas here with troubleshooting!
     
  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    No, I couldn't even hazard a guess from distance. It will be just old-fashioned electrical testing and elimination until you find the cause of the problem.
    Well a bad connection at the 12 V battery will cause more grief than most people (who are electrically illiterate) realize. I hope that that was it and it will be all plain sailing from here.

    Just remember, the battery posts have a conical profile so they are narrower at the top than at the bottom. The battery clamps are inversely shaped so it is always a good idea to back off the clamp bolts a good amount, then stretch the clamps open with a large blade screwdriver (or similar) and finally seat the clamps right to the bottom of the terminal. Be sure to not lever the clamps up while tightening. A closed-end wrench or socket is the best option for this. While you have the clamps off the battery ensure the mating surfaces are clean and shiny before reinstalling.

    I hope that helps.
     
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  15. uneven_cyclist

    uneven_cyclist Junior Member

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    Thanks dolj -- quick update, I got around to reconnecting the red/positive 12v battery cable and that seems to have made a difference: no clicking noise or blinking issues in the car, so I think it was just loose after a rushed initial installation in the autozone parking lot at closing time.

    Still need to solve the issue with the flickering headlights. I watched some youtube videos about replacing the ballast and that looks like a pita so I'm going to try swapping in some LED bulbs.

    No more issues with the dash lights in the past couple of weeks, and the check engine light/P0101 code has not made an appearance during that time either, so will keep my fingers crossed on that front as well but if it reappears then I'll proceed with further cleaning steps that mr_guy_mann suggested.

    I ordered some LED bulbs from eBay and some butt end connectors and a crimping tool, and going to give the LED conversion a shot.

    I'll share an update after that job, but it may be a bit before I get to it.