p0AA6 weirdness sub 521

Originally picked up this car went to it with a 12 volt battery started the car which had been inoperable for over 2 months let it run a few minutes talk to the guy in the parking lot and a residential area drove the car home 50 miles flawlessly had a code for the CM monitor display and it was flaky but the car drove great. Parked it at home it was evening went out the next day to start the car triangle on! ABS and VSC Amber's are lit up Scan the car and get the code as stated p0886 521 is the first subcode. I knew this was the original Toyota battery in this car from the owner I have access to the original owner so just by the nature of the age and the nonsense I called the guy who rebuilds batteries to come down from Greensboro replace the battery which he did. Car drove fine for a couple of days then the triangle and the p 0AA6 codes return I called them up and asked him if it was okay should I break the battery down have a look in the case and see if there's a leak. And he said he'll get back over here in the next few days and have a look but he doesn't think so I guess he can process near 60 modules at a time so on and so forth He says a lot of times the HV computers will cause this because of the corrosion and what have you. So basically it was throwing this P0AA6 code with the old original battery and now it's doing it with the refurbed cleaned newer setup which has new bus bars and nuts and all of that. So I'm wondering is there somewhere else I need to be looking The third subcode I think is the 612. So I'm just wondering if I'm looking in all the right places I did change the dashboard in the car and pretty much the CM monitor code is gone and the display works.

 

So the question here basically is on the 2008 that I went to Raleigh purchased put a 12 volt in the car the car started right up and I drove it 51 mi home sat overnight with a p a006 code with the 521 being the first subcode the battery. 2 days later I had a battery tech come out to my house bringing a fully rebuilt generation 2 battery with the front end intact that had been tested for a week and another vehicle just because. He brought that battery out installed it in the vehicle took the old one with him. Which couple of days later he told me was in very poor shape. Now with the new battery in 4 days later I get the P0AA6 code again with the same subcode so on and so forth so do I now want to break down the man's battery that he just put in the car 3 days ago to see if there's any kind of leakage or what have you The car hasn't left the driveway sitting in the shade I've moved it and driven it around the property to get it out of my way but haven't really gone anywhere worth talking about. Or is there someplace else I should be looking differently or at the same time I'm looking inside this rebuilt battery that was just put in I find it awfully odd that both systems are throwing the same code with the same sub two different batteries. Another interesting note is I don't see the code in my scanner until I scan In other words right now the car is sitting there with the turtle green everything is good to go but the car won't ready and I have the exclamation point ABS and the traction control light lit up but no red triangle. The minute I hook up tech and go to scan the car when the blue line gets to about section number two to four so whatever tests it's running between 2:00 and 4 the red triangle comes on immediately when the blue bar is a two or four percent or whatever that is that it's measuring. And then when the system finishes the health scan the p 0AA6 code is displayed I look at it put it away clear the codes the red triangle goes away but the three Amber lights stay on. I unplug tech restart the car the same three Amber lights are on but the red triangle is not there. But the car still will not ready I find this quite odd and I have no other codes at this point I think or if I do it's the solar sensor thing so I'm not sure what's keeping my! Traction control and ABS light on there are no codes for any of that they weren't on when the car was readying before the AA6 code started.

 

In that freeze frame data I see nothing like that parameter I'll have to connect it back up to the car and look at the data list maybe I don't see anything in this list about any insulation just the detail code 526 code 3612 and then stuff about vehicle speed coolant temperature and nothing to do with the actual battery data so I'll connect back up and see if I can get that The funny thing is is I don't have a red triangle until I run a health scan.

 

Yes it's 526 Is detail code too and three is the 612 I don't know how I got 521 in the text. Either way when I look to the battery and do the quick test from the fuse bolt to a battery grounding or mounting bolt the voltage is quite steady as I move the millivolts change a little bit but nothing serious and I thought the meter had to shoot up or down considerably for that leakage to be happening so I guess tomorrow I need to open up the bigger part of the case and look for any leakage The battery was just assembled in a pretty clean case so I guess we'll see. And other than that I have a very clean black label HV battery computer that I can swap in just to see.

 

It's just interesting to me that when I clear the code with tech while the code is clearing the red triangle disappears and the code is gone when I turn the car off pull the plug from the OBD2 connection and reboot the car the three Amber lights are there! ABS and traction control or whatever are lit continuously it won't ready and if I'm not mistaken there are five beeps and that's that. And no red triangle so I'm assuming no code yet but as soon as I hook up tech and start the scan when it gets to number two to four on the blue scale while it's doing a health check it instantly puts on the red triangle at that point I believe that's when the code is set if you will and then I get to see it about 20 seconds later when the scan is finished. I need to try what another poster did and just use a generic scanner that can't see this code or maybe it can I'm not sure and just clear the codes twice with the cheap scanner that is allowed others to start their car and get it to ready.

 

The part I forgot about in all this is it when you do this test you're looking for a race to the bottom so when you put your test leads from the orange plug silver bolt on the fuse to the frame of the battery you should see I don't know 56 volts and then it should start counting down the meter should just go to zero. Mine was sitting at the 56 volts or something like that and not moving thereby indicating that the system is not secure so it was in the rack which the guy came out replaced and now it's working flawlessly I'm assuming this is what was making other things in the car miscommunicate and act up that extra 56 volts DC running across the frame of the car maybe huh.