Hello, Longtime lurker here. I've owned my 2007 Prius now for a few years and have arrived at that point where the Actuator needed to be replaced. I did my research here, watched plenty of videos and replaced it just a couple of days ago. Using Techstream, I went through the procedure today for bleeding the brakes after an actuator replacement. Selected actuator replacement, bled the brakes and everything went well. Then, according to techinfo.toyota, it directed me to clear the DTC's (which I did), then perform Initialization. I printed the initialization document off from techinfo.toyota and followed that. They never refer to Techstream, but simply to an "intelligent tester". The first step had me perform a Reset Memory, so I did that step. Then, it said to turn the power switch off, then back on to perform Initialization of linear solenoid valve and calibration. Techstream had me turn the Prius off for 3 seconds before turning it back on so I followed those instructions. Next, I performed the linear solenoid valve and calibration in Techstream and it said that the test would take 120 seconds and not to hit the brake pedal. The ABS light was blinking quickly the entire time the test was being performed. While this was going on I was reading the techinfo.toyota printout and it said that the light should change from blinking at 1 second intervals to 0.25 second intervals. My test finished in Techstream and that never happened. Techstream said I was done, but the techinfo.toyota document differed from Techstream in this so I assumed something was wrong. I then reset the DTC's again (there were none this time), and began the initialization again.seeing that the ABS was not flashing correctly this time again, I just ended the calibration before it was over. This is where things went wrong. Now I have the dreaded Red Triangle and some new codes. Those codes are: C1203 engine control system communication circuit and C1345 not learning linear valve offset I tried the test again to no avail. Someone on the forums said they went through the brake bleeding process (the one where you select 'replaced accumulator') and that fixed it. So, I tried that and it didn't work for me. I feel like stopping that calibration just bricked my new Actuator assembly. Does anyone have any advice on how to proceed from here? My apologies for the long rant and thanks for any help/advice.
I'm not sure there's anything you can do Do your brakes seem to be working normally and all of that Can you drive the car I know the lights may be on I'm just asking if the car stops seemingly normally Do you see regen lines and the energy display when you let off the gas You don't have to be going fast or anything to be problematic maybe in your neighborhood you know that kind of thing every time I do this now I try not to do the linear valve off set I have a certain way I replace the actuator a certain way I get the brakes to be almost bled just installing the actuator all of this stuff many times I'm using a used actuator just because and then when I go to bleed the brakes I don't clear out any memories or anything like that personally I just go to the bleed the brake menu and bleed the brakes relays out relays back in You know the deal and then usually that puts my lights out and I'm going for a drive and if nothing materializes on that drive I leave it alone I don't go looking for more things to tweak just because I found that that can be more problematic If the lights are on and the car seemingly breaking normal and I see regen on the energy monitor and things are seemingly happening I'll leave it for the day drive it around whatever see if anything changes before I start tweaking any linear valve offsets or any of that or deleting any thing that the car already knows sometimes just driving it a little bit and whatnot and then clearing the codes and driving and they don't come back and that's that of course these are my personal cars so I get to see them a lot these are not customers cars.
In gen 2 there are four wires involved: ENG+ and ENG− carrying data from the ECM to the skid ECU, and TRC+ and TRC− carrying data from the skid ECU to the ECM. Also in gen 2 the skid ECU isn't part of the actuator assembly the way it is in gen 3. In gen 2 the skid ECU is under the dash. Doesn't seem like you would have disturbed that in an actuator replacement. Can you think of some way you might have? If your car's a gen 2, and you're searching online for C1203 code information, make sure to filter out pages you find that are for gen 3—that's a whole different ball of wax.
Thanks for the replies. I haven't tried to drive the car since this happened because want to get this thing out on a road until I had everything in with no issues. So, I'm unsure of how the brakes perform while driving. When I performed the linear offset the first time, Techstream didn't pop up any errors and everything seemed fine with no communication errors or codes. After doing the step again, then stopping halfway is when all the codes appeared. The actuator isn't even going through the steps of calibration when trying the calibration. That's what made me think something happened to the Actuator. I can't imagine how any of the parts replaced would have disturbed the skid ECU. I installed the Resistor that came with this Actuator under the dash, replacing the old one. But it's located on the far left side in the corner and the Skid ECU is under the dash beside the center column, so I can't see how I could have disturbed that in any way. Not saying that's not possible. Maybe that had a connection running across to the area I was working in and my hand bumped it while installing that resistor. I can check there as well as all the connections and see if something happened between the first and second calibration. Maybe one wasn't completely snapped in or something, but I'm pretty sure they were all secure. Good reminder on filtering out the Gen3. I try to make sure it's all Gen 2 stuff, but sometimes it's a little unclear. When searching for where the Skid ECU was located, I ran across a post similar to mine that had this reply: I didn't see anything regarding the Skid ECU or putting it into test mode during the initialization step. Could this be something to try? I'll upload the Initialization sheet from my model year Prius that I downloaded from the techinfo.toyota site just so you can see what I was following. Thanks for the replies and insight.
Just an update for anyone who reads this post. The 12V battery dropped just below 9V after doing the calibrations and that is what made it unable to perform another calibration when I attempted. I charged the battery this morning and it calibrated just fine. So, thank you for the input, looks like this one is solved.
Did you have a charger on the 12V battery during the bleed and relearn procedures? A marginal 12V can let system voltage drop and cause faults. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I did have a charger on the 12V when I was doing the bleed procedure. I had disconnected it after that was over and didn't try the calibration until the next day (it was late in the day when finishing with the bleeding process).