I press the brake and the green start light goes on. I press the start button and the dash lights up with lots of lights including a concerning one: a red steering wheel with an exclamation mark to the right of it. I try to put it into the gear and it goes into neutral and an amber P light with an arrow pointing to it blinks. I did some research and thought it may be the 12v battery. I put in a battery tender and it was at 12.1v. It charged all the way until the tool said the battery was full. Issue persisted. Did some more research. Tested all the easy to test fuses (the little chiclet ones that have the leads exposed, 7.5A through 30A) using a multimeter. None are blown. Then I tested the voltages. All had around 12.5V except for 20-23 and 27-29. I tested them with the car off, so most of those I would guess make sense to not have any voltages. But 28 and 29 concern me. Any ideas? Should I test those with the car on?
Odds are you have hybrid trouble codes that will tell the story. Needs a better than auto supply scanner. A bad inverter will prevent shift to D although N is usually available. If inverter could be in warranty.
Thanks for the reply! After looking into it, it seems that if I have some error codes the inverter would indeed be under warranty: P0A94 – DC/DC Converter Performance P324E – MG ECU power relay intermittent circuit P3004 – Power Cable Malfunction P0A1A – Generator Control Module any suggestions for a scanner that can check for these codes? I live pretty far from the Toyota dealership and don’t want to haul it all the way there if I don’t need to.
There are $500 scanners from Launch or the XTool D8 that are close to Techstream. There are hacked and illegal Techstream versions sold with a Mini vci hardware interface. Techstream only runs on a pc laptop. Regardless of your inspection, the dealer has to read the codes to qualify.
