I am aware that you get to the license plate bulb from the inside through the hatch - Instructions I've read say "Remove plastic panel inside hatch." OK, but how? I don't want to simply randomly pry around, not knowing just where the tabs are. Can anyone help? Pix would be great! We're talking a 2008. Thx!
Without using any tools, grab one corner of the hatch panel and exert force to pull it away. Once you get a corner loose then you'll find it is easy to remove that trim panel.
Unfortunately, it really is the entire back panel that has to be removed (they fixed this issue with the Gen 3 by providing little cutouts). A flatblade screwdriver can help you if you're not comfortable with exerting a lot of force on the plastic panel. Just be aware that the panel is pliable so be careful with the screwdriver. I usually start with the corners where the panel comes up the sides to meet the lower rear window, just prying it out a little, then go towards the centre where the latch hook is and pry that out a bit (A bit of an analogy is like prying up those old school metal lids on a tin can where you just use a flatblade to lift up the metal lid and you keep going around until the lid pops off). Hopefully it'll make it easier to pull off once you have a gap around.