Stuck ABS solenoid

I’ve been driving it this way for the last 80k miles. I didn’t pay much for it but I want squeeze the last drop out of this car. Serious front end deer damage. I’m at 195k miles on a 2008. I have a c1344 code and no brake flow or pressure at all to the left hand rear side. Right hand side works. I took it to a mechanic with a proper tech stream enabled scan tool, he pulled the code and tried to bleed it with the scan tool and we walked it all the way back to before the proportioning valve. I think it may be a stuck valve. The original owner said it happened after he changed the brakes and jammed a cylinder back in with the cap on the brakes. I think he may have forced some gunk or debris into the valve. Is it possible to clean or fish a fine wire back into it and clean or unjam it? I’ll need to check and see if the solenoid itself is good but I’m pretty sure it is.

 

I thought it was a proportioning valve, traced it back to the firewall at least, no flow up to that point. He cleared the code and it came back.
It does weep on that side, the rest flow and bleed fine.

 

He cleared the code, put it into abs pump mode and also had the brakes pressed in I believe. Traced the line up to the firewall so pretty much the ABS by the sounds of it. It seems to weep and dribble. I looked at a schematic, looks like there is a second solenoid that removes pressure back to an accumulator, could that be stuck open and preventing it from building up pressure in that line? I don’t think the ABS has failed. Pump runs and cycles pretty normal, plus I’m pretty sure the other side wouldn’t work in a complete pump failure, that’s why I’m thinking clog. No other codes.

 

Wouldn’t an ABS failure be complete with no pressure in both sides and hard pedal effort?
I get full and powered braking on the front brakes and the rear right/passenger side. I was under the impression when you have an abs pump/actuator failure you lose all braking power.