Hello, 184K miles. Car dash says I'm getting 40 MPG, my calculations say I'm getting 25 MPG. My cluster board only turns on 50% of the time, and has been like this for a year. Haven't switched it out just to save money, figuring it doesn't affect the driving. **Few days ago, switched to a "new" [See: refurbished/re-built] $600 main battery, since Toyota said to replace mine ASAP. Hasn't greatly helped the MPG. Will try thinner oil, putting LRR tires on the front, and will check the 12volt battery (a local mechanic said I shouldn't worry about it with MPG: this forum says different). Have heard new spark plugs help, as does replacing the inverter coolant (?).
the car is reporting correctly. (despite the fact that it tends to be optimistic) so you are probably getting high thirties mpg. your problem is the gas tank bladder, which often doesn't allow consistent fill amounts. you need to start tracking your measurements at the pump, and averaging them out. another problem will be the $600. rebuilt battery, which likely won't last very long.
It's hard to think of just one thing that would give you that bad of fuel economy short of towing a fully loaded tractor-trailer rig behind your Prius. Not having LRR tires will hurt pretty badly. So will dragging brakes. Hard stopping is a tremendous fuel waster. Hard acceleration is almost as bad. A low 12V battery will also be a power drain since the car is working harder to charge it, but not all that much. I don't see how a bad CM will affect your efficiency, but I would get it replaced so you know if you should expect flashing red and blue lights in your rear view mirror, if nothing else. Another thing to keep in mind is that I don't think the odometer is working when the CM isn't working. So you're probably going a lot farther on a tank than the odometer says on those occasions when the odo lights up. I could be wrong about this, though. As @bisco said, a rebuilt battery is one of the surest ways to buy trouble. What you have isn't likely to be hurting you now, but it will do so way sooner than you will like.
The clusterboard has know bad solder problems, try toyota for a possible warranty The traction battery.... If replaced with a new Toyota traction battery 2,500$ (Installed) will give five years of like new mpg’s, as long as the wheel bearings aren’t seized
I think Jerry is probably right that you're driving further on a tank than you think you are and that's why your calculations are so low. Miles are not added to the odometer when you drive without the combination meter working.
Thanks for the verification. I had assumed that the storage of the miles driven was dependent on the CM.
I don't think the odometer stops when the dashboard goes dark, because I note the odometer AND create a new 'Trip A' to run parallel with the odometer after each fill. When the dash comes back on, the readings are still aligned. This last fill, after 2 days of the dash going dark, gave me 11 MPG. The full before that, when the dash was on, gave me 44 MPG. When the dash goes dark, it feels like it's constantly in B mode: the car seems to be pulling more. I never let the gas gauge below 3 squares because it's faulty and has left me on empty a few times on the road. *last week, when I manually reset the MAINT REQD light, the MPG jumped up to 44 MPG, as it did this morning after filing it up, lights newly back on. Thoughts, anyone? Appreciate you guys. I wonder if replacing the fuel tank and cluster board would help this huge difference in MPG. Changed the air filter a while ago. The 600 battery helped bring it up from 25 mpg. on
I hope you're right about the odometer not tracking when the dash goes dark...that could mean there may not be an MPG problem after all If I were to fix only one of the two recommended things (fuel tank switch or cluster board), I'm guessing the CB would be better? (I'm cheap)
I was told my two front tires aren't LRR. I get them rotated every 3,000 miles. Not sure if it'd be cost efficient to change the two out.
I can't think of stronger evidence that the odometer DOES NOT work when the dash is out. If it did work, your mileage would be the same. Also, I would pay heed to @Texas Hybrid Batteries comment. He fixes CMs so should know more than either of us about how they work.
No. Fix your combination meter first, then look at other things, if there is still problem. Even then, I would wait until the tires were worn out before changing them. Just get the best LRR you can justify at that point. It would not be cost effective to change out the tires just because they are not LRR. Let me repeat that. I can't think of stronger evidence that the odometer DOES NOT work when the dash is out. If it did work, your mileage would be the same. Also, I would pay heed to Texas Hybrid Batteries comment. He fixes CMs so should know more than either of us about how they work.