Hello everyone. It’s my first time posting on here, but I’ve been researching the heck out of this issue all day on the forum and other places. I figured a video would be the easiest way to start this so I recorded one and put it unlisted on YouTube but I can’t post it here since this is my first time posting. I started this whole process with the red triangle of death, and all of my other lights on. My 12 V battery showed that it needed to be charged but was still good and with all the research I did it showed I should replace the battery anyways and see what happens. I was able to run the codes yesterday at an AutoZone and I’ve got a couple codes for the O2 sensor, but I’ve already replaced that a while back, and I have the P0A93 code so I’m planning to replace that pump. I also have a P2238 code. I decided I would drive the car home after making one more stop and the vehicle died on the way to that one more stop. Stayed in N and would not go into D or R. If it sat for a few mins I could start and go but it would die shortly after accelerating. I replaced the 12 V battery and now I can’t start the vehicle. When I press the brake and hit the start button. The power light turns green but nothing changes on the dash or the display. If I push the button again, the power light turns orange and I get my check engine light on, but nothing else. I checked all of the fuses, checked all of the connections, make sure all of the grounds were good, checked power in the back and under the hood, and both were good. There’s no power to the OBDII port so I can’t even read any codes or anything now. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much in advance.
I double and triple checked it and changed it just in case. However!!! I was just continuing my research only from the computer with a glass of burbon so it was more tolerable than in my car in the Florida heat. The fusible link popped up on my radar thanks to @Bosko7 on this thread. I just went out and found a broken connection on the fusible link. I will work to get that changed and let you all know! That thread I linked to was EXACTLY what I was going through.
It was the fusible link for sure. Just went out and connected it to verify and it it up and running. It looks like a majority of time this is caused by cross polarity when jumping the vehicle. I didn’t jump it so that isn’t possible. But my guess is… the negative was still attached when I pulled the positive lead off and I didn’t not remove the white plugs from the positive when I removed it. Then I put it down in the trunk area grounding it on the body of the car. Moral of the story… remove the white plugs first!
If you find it to be blown, before replacing the AM2 fuse, disconnect the inverter coolant pump at the connector shown in the image below :
Just went through this yesterday with a guy on the telephone 400 miles away you say your display is blank this is the eyebrow display that's directly in front of you that shows the gas gauge the transmission selection and what have you this is not lighting up when you try to ready the car is this correct? That's the CM monitor display issue that can make the car hard to turn on and doubly hard to turn off to the point where you have to hold the power button till you see everything go blank or what you have on go blank and so on so first you want to check above the am too fuse if it's blown you're going to undo the black plug that doji circled above and then replace the am2 fuse and then get in the car and attempt to ready the car put on the brake one push of the power button if the am too fuse was blown and you unplugged the black plug and replace the am2 fuse the car should now light up and ready and drive if you're under 80° outside you should be able to drive pretty normally for 50 or 60 miles without even noticing that the inverter pump is not working other than a light being on and a code being present for the inverter pump this will not ruin the car it's the inverter fluid gets too hot because it's too warm out and you're driving fast it will slowly step back charging the hybrid battery and if you continue to do this you'll eventually get your battery low enough where your car won't really be moving so driving around town locally and 80° weather probably is not going to give you any problems but you want to get the pump replaced and the black plugged back up as soon as possible and that doesn't mean a year from now although I drove a Prius in North Carolina without an inverter pump in place or a dead one in place not working for a year easily and didn't damage any other part of the car and drove it everyday because that's what I do drive everyday. No problem so run these quick checks and see if you're back to driving and then you know what to do
