This car is new to me and has 200,000 miles on it. It just started the issue with the coolant loss and the heat exchanger. I did the bypass underneath the car, that seemed pretty easy. I read that the port to the heat exchanger should be capped off? Well, I did that, but I didn’t secure the caps and one of the caps popped off under pressure. Should I have vacuumed or tried to blow out all of the coolant from the exchanger? It’s actually in the catalytic converter isn’t it? Do you just have to wait for it all to burn off and then cap it off? I don’t remember reading this.
It's in the exhaust pipe, behind both catalytic converters. (In gen 4, the first catalytic converter is built into the exhaust manifold. So the exhaust pipe starts with the second catalytic converter, followed by the heat exchanger.)
Just asking a hypothetical question- if the cap popped off- would that imply that the system is sealed, ie- that there is no failure in the heat exchanger?
I’m trying to figure out the pros and cons of this device. What is the effect of bypassing? Just that one might struggle for heat?
If the exhaust heat exchanger failed there is now an exhaust leak into your "capped" coolant lines. I would probably securely cap it. You should also ensure the thermostatic valve is secure in an open position to reduce exhaust restriction.
You've got your answer in this thread.... Looking for help doing the heat exchanger bypass | PriusChat Your more than likely creating another future problem by bypassing a perfectly good EGHE, and pretending to tell us you have a leak. Think about it - if it's leaking, why did it blow off the cap??? Wouldn't the excess pressure just leak into the exhaust system? Path of least resistance. That's why problems needs to be tested, rather than going by assumptions alone....
Assuming your bypass fixed the coolant loss, cause and bypass effect was determined. A 2019 would take longer than a 2016 to experience the issue if it was going to happen. Another member forced the exhaust heat exchanger valve into the straight through open position here: Need help with Custom PIDs for Gen 3 Electric Water Pump (21D7) in Torque Pro | PriusChat That was on a gen3 so your gen4 could be slightly different. To find a recent post from a member click on their name and then "recent posts". One issue with Priuschat is the post title may have nothing to do with the solution. This is because the op was guessing at first about the problem and edit ability is quickly locked out for admin paranoia reasons. In the link above the member started looking for custom scanner pids to diagnose a water pump but it was a stuck exhaust heat exchanger valve.
Help me out a little- what's the answer? I don't have any coolant loss after doing this bypass, I do know that.
He missed your update. It happens. This forum has a refresh problem on Iphone and other ios devices. Meaning a post may be missed without a manual refresh.
@rjparker ; Thanks.... @C Clay If the issue is resolved, what's the question? The day before you started this thread you posted wanting to proactively bypass the EGHE (see link), even though 2019 was at the end of the recall/failure list. That's why I was confused that all of a sudden you developed a leak. As I've always stated; you should test your assumptions before taking action; so you don't waste your time and money, chasing ghosts and assumptions. Looking for help doing the heat exchanger bypass | PriusChat Happy you've resolved your issue......
I’m just questioning the outcome if the cap popped off. I’ve read that one should cap off where you’ve bypassed, and since it shot off- I’m just wondering why.
Pressure test it to see if there's an actual leak - simple as that.... I've already stated why I don't think it's leaking there in thread #8. I've only got your observations and test results to form my conclusions. I'm not there; those are your tests and observations - I'm just pointing out inconsistencies that you should probably double check.
You have an exhaust leak pressurizing it, more so if the exhaust heat exchanger valve is closed. On top of that the coolant is vaporizing which adds volume. But that vapor will quickly exit at the rear exhaust pipe if the cap is secure.
Those old steam powered locomotives was easily 5x+-10x+ the weight of your current car. It's going to push on the weakest spot and escape.