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You smile but you're very close. The buzzing you normally hear at cold startup and at shut down is the heat recovery system pump heating up the...
I'm guessing the CEL has been on for a while then, and it could have been "masking" another DTC. We're guessing without the full list codes, as...
The ABS issue is a "warranty enhancement," rather than a recall. Look at the concurrent thread here to get a copy of the letter if you didn't get...
Your 12V is charged by the hybrid inverter. I suppose if your inverter shut down due to overtemp, you might have gotten low 12V causing the other...
Just for the heck of it, check the EFI (15 Amp) fuse under the hood in the main junction box. If you can pull the fuse and check it with an...
Start with replacing the coolant pump and check your 12V battery--how old is it? Many of the codes refer to the braking system, and I think low...
Try putting your car in "IG-ON" mode, by pushing the start button twice with foot off brake. The engine will not start in this mode. Several...
This would be my first guess. Second is that there's better metallurgy at work in the inverter, assuming the chemistry of the coolant is the same.
Click on the Smart Key "block" on the first page after you connect to the car. The block changes color when it connects. Sometimes it takes a...
Rapidly changing state of charge and excess heat (battery fan running) are two obvious indicators of bad battery health. I don't think the leak...
Do you ever hear the battery fan come on (grille on right side of back seat)?
Not much is impossible. I once left a capped bottle of muriatic acid in a tool cabinet. I'm still fighting the corrosion those vapors caused on...
A "leak" is a very high impedance fault, with very low current. It can be caused on a battery by leaking electrolyte, causing a current path from...
It sounds like you've a good job, checking what you can. At this point, if you don't have Toyota's wiring diagrams and diagnostic tools, you'll...
You did check fuses, right? 30A CDS FAN and 30A RDI (fusible link) are the first ones to look at. Many DIYers have the MiniVCI with Techstream....
The P1121 is a code you can live with indefinitely, at least until heating season. As already mentioned it has nothing to do with your current...
Are you asking about the fans at the radiator? Did you check power to the relays (fuses)? If that's OK, check the relay input signals which come...
Yep, at ten years old it sounds like it's time for them to fail. The shop might have damaged one, but at this point it's not worth getting upset...
This post really makes me thank my sister who married an A/C mechanic and this is one thing I've never had to mess with. Good to hear the OP got...
So the key transponder is working, but it's not talking to the immobilizer system. That could be an ECU or network problem. You might need...