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Well, it is and it isn't. It is an OEM cover but it has been painted green by a "rebuilder". You either need to remove any trace of the green...
For most cases, the calibration procedure will not change anything, but for your situation, it might be appropriate. The procedure touted as a...
Second Sam's comment. Original formula WD-40 will dry out the connection surfaces and make the squeaking worse over the long run. Use a proper...
That's a good idea as it's not a question if it will fail, but when. A preemptive strike here would be prudent. As a side note, when the CM...
I have been sitting on my hands while biting my tongue and biding my time to allow you to present your case. Now that you say that the difference...
I just checked at my battery shop and they have a Varta AGM 46B24R for NZ$383 ($333.04 + 15% GST $49.96) which USD would be ~US$196.91 + taxes....
I'm not actually telling to to replace anything. I'm pointing you at what you need to check. It is up to you if you want to unload the part...
The hybrid battery fan starts running at high speed simply because those two codes are set. It doesn't mean your battery is hot.
If Toyota doesn't have any at the moment, get an AGM in an S46B24R form factor from your local auto parts store. I
Unless the car is lying, P3013 says otherwise. At least you have a warranty to fallback on.
The OP last posted here on Nov 8, 2016. Reading between the lines, he discovered the level in the actual radiator was low so he topped it up, and...
Driving the car a few blocks likely didn't do anything adverse. You need to clear the code. If it comes back you need to look into it further...
Ya pays yer money; ya takes yer chances.
Fairly sure no thread has a write-up of testing and replacing the individual cells of the hybrid battery seeing as they are contained within a...
Which fuse did you pull? It sounds like someone has installed a higher-rated fuse in that spot because it should not melt the fuse holder or...
Why did you pull the negative cable? It will be pointless now to attach your OBDII device to the car as there will be no codes due to you pulling...
That will do it. You need to replace the leaky modules. Any that just had electrolyte transfer from an adjacent leaky module, but not actually...
A leaking module doesn't necessarily have any degradation of voltage. You just need to visually inspect. Look for staining on the battery case.
You will spend way more to implement this than you will save on gas. It's a dead duck now. If you really want 100 MPG, trade your Gen 2 for a PIP.
It is not an up-sell if it is leaking, it needs to be replaced. If you do the job it needs to be done properly so it doesn't leak.
