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In SoCal if a car has anything but a light dusting of surface rust we walk away. In the NE you folks cannot be that picky. Still, I would expect...
Only buy Toyota OEM parts from a dealer. Amazon is awash with fake parts, many in more or less authentic looking packaging.
What does the bottom of that car look like? We understand that the battery compartment might have rusted out from the inside, but since this car...
Does it do that if the car is not moving and the engine is rev'd? Wheel bearings wear out eventually, and the sound it makes is usually speed...
Psshhh could have been a module venting. Most NiMH batteries can do that a couple of times before they are completely fried, but since you don't...
I just read swing's other thread, which preceded this one. It said that before the car was off for a very long time the combination meter was...
Probably won't work, but it is easy to try: Maybe unhook the negative cable at the battery post, wait a couple of minutes, reattach and try...
Is a second key fob available? I suppose that it's possible that the RFID inside broke, not sure how, maybe a pass through the washing machine or...
OEM from the dealer, or OEM from Amazon or Ebay? The web vendors are awash with fake "Toyota OEM" parts.
Verify that the connectors at the 12V battery in the back are tight, that there is a very low resistance path from the negative post to clean...
If the valve was changed verify that the hoses were put on correctly. It is very easy to swap the top two. There is always the possibility that...
Personally I would rather buy a used car with tires that are not brand spanking new. That way I can see if there is a problem with how the tires...
That load tester is designed for 12V batteries. You might have been able to use one of the old fashioned manual ones to test individual modules,...
Did the OP unhook the 12V battery? If not, do that for a minute, reattach, and that should clear the code. If it comes back, then you need to...
Sure, but the only load for the pack while the car is in neutral and the A/C is off is to provide power for the 12V systems and charge the 12V...
Yeah, that is a bit of a problem. The 12V won't run down quickly if all the electric loads are turned off: lights, fans, A/C, and so forth....
68K miles in 15 years is about 4500 miles a year, 86 miles a week, or 12 miles a day, on average. In other words, the car has hardly been...
He may want you to go dig around in the glove box while he does something nefarious elsewhere in the car.
Whether or not to replace the sensors would mostly depend on how much a person drives. Let's say tires last 40k miles, the owner drives 20k miles...
Putting any kind of new tire on is not going to pay off as the buyer isn't going to raise the price they would pay for a nice set of tires...
