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It seems you may have a HV battery issue or a transaxle issue, both will be expensive to fix. But it's best to get the codes on the car, don't...
Is the engine on when you reverse? You have fuel in the car right?
For the coolant, it's only a drain and refill. No flushing. The shocks and struts, you can buy the OEM Toyota ones for the best ride comfort...
You should get an oem 12v battery, the aftermarket stuff usually inferior at priced similar to Toyota
Probably just a bad pump. It should have a warranty, just have to redo the work. If it fails again, then just buy a Toyota pump
That filter is not aftermarket, it's OEM from the factory. If the car is running good and everything checks out to be good, you should just buy...
If you've done zero maintenance on this car for nearly 180k miles, you would have to change everything out. I would start with the basics like...
It seems to be pretty clearly a bad 12v battery issue. Change that out and it should be good.
You cannot buy 2 new modules, you would have to return the battery for another one. I think an understanding person at the Toyota parts counter...
Generally it's best to replace with a brand new battery purchased directly from Toyota dealers. You can purchase used ones off wrecks, but those...
It's just popping them out and putting the new ones in. Best to have someone help you hold up the hatch when the strut is off, it becomes a bit...
Are you sure you put the hose back correctly? The clamps are in place? You should check carefully on where the coolant is spraying out of 3...
Maybe you should just go get a brake inspection, make sure your brakes are not low (especially the rears)
Ask a neighbor with a high school age kid. Give them $10 There's a battery rebuilder I knew that used a hoist to assist, but it's not very easy...
With 225K+ miles, I would not think they'll give you much of a discount on this repair. List price for part 44500-47141 is $1716. Labor charge...
Have you checked all your fluid levels to see if they are not low?
dealer prices are quite high, but these are estimates 1. 12v - $225 at the parts counter, installed might be $120 more 2. Smart key repair -...
well not sure about the knocking noise, but your brake accumulator/actuator is leaking pressure. You hear it buzzing every few seconds.
There were others that have installed Dorman products and they ended up being defective.
Did you bleed all the air out of the coolant loop? Where did you get the replacement valve? Is it an OEM product?
