2010 codes: C1203, C1336, C1345, C1393

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ItsDave, Aug 10, 2023.

  1. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is one of the reasons why I haven't fixed the 2010 solar roof car thank God it's head gasket is going down the toilet now so we can get out of all of the fixing I was afraid to change these two parts on either of the generation 3 is here because of this kind of hullabaloo all the other people have done it and not had so much issues. I was hoping I would be given away out of doing this..
     
  2. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    so no fix here?
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Haven't heard back from Dave in a while so I don't know what happened with his car I have a generation 3 here that needs this but it needs a lot of other things before I would even get to the brakes and thank God we're not going to be doing that so the brakes is never going to be a thing again this car would need a few thousand dollars in parts and labor and work to just get back on the road as it sits right now with a yucky interior and all of that by far this is not going to happen We don't need it like that I don't generally like to have crappy interior cars that's where we live when we're in the car outside of the car a few dents and scrapes not a problem but inside we want to be clean straight be able to sit in the seats that are leather with shorts and not get your legs ripped up that sort of thing That's kind of mandatory unless I'm shopping for a work vehicle
     
  4. Hovik

    Hovik Junior Member

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    I'd love to know if ItsDave ever resolved this issue. I have a similar situation, with codes C1336, C1345, C1368 and C1451. I believe I inadvertently plugged in the bidirectional scanner when the vehicle was in Ready/Engine On not realizing it had to be unplugged to get the car in on accessory mode first. Did I fry something? I too am not getting any blinking ABS/Brake lights when doing proceedure such as linear offset calibration which the scanner says should be blinking.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Huh ? Never heard of any of that I plugged my AP200 in while the car is sitting here and ready mode matter of fact let me do it right now because I want to check something I'm sitting here in a McDonald's parking lot with the AP200 I just shoved it in the slot and now I'm bringing Max app up on the phone and it's going to connect and do nothing and the only code I have is for my downstream O2 sensor been here for weeks I've never heard of the phenomenon where this can happen like this I'll try it on the other two cars when I get back to the house. I know I can plug up the CF-13 toughbook with TS software on it anywhere in the ignition steps I mean it doesn't say anything about it but I plugged it up before with the car off with the car ready with the car with just the radio on and no lights on and then turn it on because I realized TIS can't connect to the car listening to the radio in that position so I hit the button again and it readies or it goes into accessory mode and then the blue line start running across TIS and it connects and ask me all the things that asked me when I'm normally running the software as it starts very interesting learning something possibly new everyday.
     
  6. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    What brand of scanner caused these events?
     
  7. Hovik

    Hovik Junior Member

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    Topdon Artidiag600s
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well I definitely don't have any of that so maybe it's a specific something another so your instructions told you in your top don not to do this? That must be the case because I've never heard of this by people just scanning cars in general but it must be scanner specific I've never heard of it as a general what you shouldn't do with a scanner of any type bi-directional I would think that would make more sense I agree but I've never gotten any codes from shoving the scanner or the VCI thing into my OBD2 port with my Bluetooth on or off or nothing so I just find it interesting I'm using an AP200 in Toyota TS on the CF-13 that's all I have for this car these cars that is certainly interesting.
     
  9. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    trash it and get one of these... thats a low end device and ive noticed similar occurrences with low end devices and them even throwing the check pcs error on the dash. there is another thread around here were folks give kudos to this article below and the device they purchased that does what they need.

    upload_2025-3-28_0-14-50.png
    https://black.jmyntrn.com/2024/06/23/techstream-obd2-device-thoughts/
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    They're are 63 dollar stand alone BT VCI adapters that do almost all of it. No need software like TS .
     
  11. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    just because you type it doesn't make it true.. you got a link or some way to prove what you type?
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Stand alone, if you already have a smartphone or tablet to put the app on. The BT adapter itself hasn't got any screen or buttons.

    Costs a little more if you pick up another beater phone to run it on.
     
  13. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    not really.. fb marketplace has a $60 OnePlus Nord N10 5G phone thatll ship to me. Combined with a dongle getting close to $200 spend which is lower price than a standalone...
     
  14. Hovik

    Hovik Junior Member

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    In case anyone is interested, I resolved this issue. My driveway is on a decent slope, I noticed some air pockets near the back of my brake fluid reservoir. While I don't think the system is drawing fluid from the top of the reservoir based on where the hoses connect, I figured I should do my best to resolve that. I moved my car down to the street and parked it, then I loosened the mounting bolts on the reservoir and tilted it around to where I got the air pockets to float to the surface before re-mounting it. Then, I re-ran the bleed procedure (after ABS replacement) followed by the Linear Offset Calibration and at last everything completed with the ABS and Brake lights blinking on the dash as they should. Then the codes cleared when I re-ran diagnostics, except one, which I cleared and it hasn't come back. Problem fixed. As a reminder, I had bled the brakes completely with no air bubbles using both the program several times, and the ABS and Brake lights remained solid after the Bleed and Linear Offset procedure was completed. I suppose this was why. FWIW I also had the vehicle on a 12v charger during the later attempts in the driveway as well as during the last attempt in the street.
     
    Brian1954 likes this.
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I say cool as long as it works never seen anything like that I'm pretty much on a flat dirt driveway here so I don't know about any air bubbles in my brake reservoir usually when I'm changing the actuator I fill the reservoir slam full of fluid like to the top of the black lid put that lid back on it then I use hose clamps on the three feet hoses that go from the reservoir to points left or right however you're looking at it and those get blocked off so now when I undo the actuator and remove it from the car the feed tube from the reservoir to the actuator can just hang there no fluid comes out of it it's waiting for me to unclamp it and I don't do that until all the metal lines are connected but loose to the replacement actuator then I let the line unclamp that feeds the actuator and I start from the bottom and when air clears each connection I tighten it all the way up to the tippity top of the actuator that pretty much is pushed your air out of the actuator and it's now any air left is ready to be pushed down any of the four lines going to the wheels That's how I look at it then I take the relays out bleed the front put the relays back in bleed the back I don't know what that does for any lights but it makes it so that I have a pedal like I had three weeks ago before the actuator went bad I can drive around with that brake pedal with the lights on and have brake pedal like I had 3 weeks ago but I just have lights on like I've had for the last 3 weeks but the pedals like it's supposed to be then I go and clear the codes with the scanner and generally they clear and they're gone One car's been cleared 5 years only one car have I had to do the linear valve offset and I got it to work and clear and have no lights on but the lights on the dash did not flash like Toyota software says they will and I was using the Toyota software It tells you what lights are going to blink in for how long and all that while you're doing the linear valve offset I have never gotten the lights to flash at the end of the linear valve offset to this day and I'm staring at them when this is going on not smoking a cigarette not looking out the window not walked off to get a drink I'm standing there never seen it yet oh well maybe it's a typo whatever If the lights are off and the brake pedals working like my foot's supposed to feel it it's out of sight and out of mind.