Auto-folding mirrors and turn indicators part numbers

Window switch - Trust me, it's all one piece. I tried to do what you're thinking. It became pretty clear the only way I was going to get the switch assembly open was by breaking it.

It's super easy to pull your existing switch out to see what I mean. The switch assembly is just snapped into a piece of door trim, which is snapped into the door card. Just pop the switch out and disconnect the two wiring connectors. Then you can bring it inside and play with it to see if you can get it open.


Wiring: Yes, you'd splice the LH & RH MF(mirror forward) wires together and then run the combined feed to the PDBA. Same with the LH & RH MR(mirror reverse) wires. There's actually a junction connector in the dash that's meant for this purpose, but I'm pretty sure you have to pull the dash pad out to access it(which is what I did). In a junction connector, one wire goes in and multiple wires come out. There's another one in the dash for the turn signals. One wire goes in, and two wires come out; one to the mirror and one to the taillight(the headlight turn signal uses a different set of wires).

I totally forgot to mention you also need to run a pair of wires from the Main Body ECU(clipped onto the PDBA) to the Multiplex Master Switch Assembly(the power window/lock/mirror switch). You also need to splice a ground over, but you can get that from another ground on the same connector(that's exactly how the factory does it).



So this is what you need:
connector name - pin number - purpose - wire color <|> intermediate connector/pin number <|> wire color - destination

Main Body ECU:
K16 - 26 - Mirror Reverse - brown <|> OK2 connector in driver's footwell/pin 3 <|> sky blue - to Multiplex Master Switch in driver's door/pin 10
K16 - 28 - Mirror Forward - violet <|> OK2 connector in driver's footwell/pin 14 <|> sky blue - to Multiplex Master Switch in driver's door/pin 9


PDBA
K20 - 45 - Ground - white/black - connect to a ground(if it doesn't already exist, you can splice to the ground going into K20 - pin 36)
K21 - 10 - Mirror Forward - lavender/pink - supposed to go to a junction connector then off to each door
- Drivers Door - pink <|> OK2 connector in driver footwell/pin 2 <|> green <|> O9 connector near mirror/pin 10
- Pass Door - gray <|> NK1 connector in pass footwell/pin 2 <|> red <|> N9 connector near mirror/pin 10
K21 - 24 - Mirror Reverse - lavender/violet- supposed to go to a junction connector then off to each door
- Drivers Door - sky blue <|> OK2 connector in driver footwell/pin 13 <|> violet <|> O9 connector near mirror/pin 4
- Pass Door - black <|> NK1 connector in pass footwell/pin 13 <|> violet <|> N9 connector near mirror/pin 4
K21 - 25 - Ground - white/black - connect to a ground(can either splice to previous ground or to K21 - pin 13)
K21 - 38 - LH Turn - violet - splice into wire - yellow <|> OK2 connector in driver footwell/pin17 <|> black <|> O9 connector near mirror/pin 5
K21 - 39 - RH Turn - pink - splice into wire - sky blue <|> NK1 connector in pass footwell/pin17 <|> black <|> N9 connector near mirror/pin 5

Driver Mirror Connector
O9 - 9 - Ground - white/black - connect to a ground - I think this already exists

Pass Mirror Connector
N9 - 9 - Ground - white/black - connect to a ground - I think this already exists

Multiplex Master Switch:
Splice a wire off of pin 7(white/black - ground) and run to pin 9


I think that's everything. It's probably not understandable, so sorry for that. I'll try to attach the wiring diagrams to give a second source. You don't necessarily need to use the same wire colors and pin locations, but it will make any future troubleshooting easier if the wiring matches the official diagrams as much as possible.

If you decide to continue with this project, let me know and I'll try to dig up where I got all the terminals and the replacement mirror connectors(your car comes with 8-pin connectors, but the new harness from Japan will have an 11-pin)

 

Whoops, I made a mistake. Your car CURRENTLY has the 11 pin connectors(O9 & N9). The new harness should be a 16 pin connector(O12 & N12). I attached pdfs showing the two different connectors.

I'll follow up with the rest tomorrow.

 

(I started ordering parts almost 2 years ago, and finished the project almost a year ago, so forgive me if I'm a little foggy on some details from time to time - like mixing up the connectors in a previous post.)

Looking back at my orders, this appears to be what I bought for terminals and where I got them from:
1376109-1 (50) from Digikey - need a minimum of 26 - used for the new mirror harness connectors(13 LH, 13 RH)
1123343-1 (25) from Digikey - not sure you need these at all, I think I bought them in error
1827855-2 (10) from Digikey - need a minimum of 2 - used at the Main Body ECU
1674311-7 (10) from Digikey - need a minimum of 3 - used at the Multiplex Master Switch(driver door armrest switches)
82998-24290 (20+20*) from AliExpress - need a minimum of 12 - used at PDBA(4) and footwells(5 LH, 3 RH)
82998-24270 (20+20*) from AliExpress - need a minimum of 8 - used at footwells(5 LH, 3 RH)

I bought way, way more than I needed in most cases, but I recommend buying at least double the minimum number you need unless you're experienced in crimping these types of connectors because you're likely to ruin a bunch. I remember usually ruining 2 for every 1 success to start with, before figuring out the tricks and eventually ruining 1 for every 3 successes by the end. And that restarts with each different style of terminal. Plus there are often discounts at certain quantities.

I also needed more because I followed the wiring diagram exactly, which meant the extra runs to the junction connectors and no wire taps/splices at all(I still recommend this approach, but I understand why someone wouldn't want to pull the dash pad).

Finally, I added my puddle light wiring to the existing footwell connectors to make that install cleaner. That meant a few more terminals.

Absolutely don't buy terminals directly from Toyota. You should be able to find the terminals for $0.10-$0.50 each through electronics suppliers like Digikey, but Toyota will typically charge $15-$35 per terminal for the exact same thing. I'm not joking.


I highly recommend paying for access to Techinfo to make use of their interactive wiring diagrams. Once you learn how to use it, it's easy to find part numbers for connectors and terminals, wire colors and gauges, instructions on how to de-pin each type of terminal, locations of connections, and other useful things.

I don't 100% guarantee everything on this list(1-2 years ago and I only took just enough notes to get through the project), but I think it's really close.




*I doubled the order because it was my first time ordering through AliExpress and I wasn't sure how much I could trust the sellers. Ordering the full amount from two different suppliers was a way to reduce any risk. Each order was about $10, so it wasn't a hardship. lol

 

Also, good crimpers are a must. I used two plus a wire stripper. A high quality open barrel terminal crimper is a must. I think I got an S&G 18600. I also recommend using non-insulated butt connectors when you need to do your splicing/tapping(with heat shrink over the top). To crimp those, I got a Lobster AK-2MA. Spendy, but boy is it so much better than those crappy ones you get at Walmart or the local autoparts stores. I got the actual connectors from Amazon(Wirefy brand).

You'll also need a good wire cutter for detail work(like leaving as much wire as possible when you swap the mirror harness connectors - there is virtually no slack to work with). I had a God Hand SPN-120 nipper that was sitting around after some modelling that worked amazing. (Unfortunately I broke it a week ago because I had forgotten just how much I paid for the stupid thing and used it for some really rough work.)

Finally, a bunch of 22ga automotive wire in different colors and a decent wire stripper. I got a nice automatic wire stripper, but it just couldn't handle the thin-wall automotive wire. I ended up using my cheap generic crimper/stripper for that job. I got the wire from some eBay sellers. I tried 20ga at first, but the insulation was just too thick to get into most of the connectors. I fought it for a while before giving up and ordering 22ga.

 

Nice job. You're 100% correct. Apparently I tried attacking it from the top a year and a half ago instead of coming at it from the bottom. Once I saw your picture, I had it popped open in a few seconds.

Use the bulk of the European switch and just swap in the larger circuit board from your original switch. Can confirm it works perfectly.

Thanks a bunch. That was the last weird thing about my installation.

 

I also forgot to add the part numbers for the new connectors between the mirror harnesses and door harnesses. You'll need two of: 90980-12261. I think you can find them for super cheap from an electronics distributer, but I think I just bought them from Toyota because I didn't want to spend a few hours searching through parts websites just to save maybe $15.

$12.53 MSRP each from Toyota, but a person should be able to find them for around $7.50-$8.50 each. Probably $1.50 each if bought from an electronics supply house.

A person could also choose to just splice things together wire by wire for almost no cost, but it wouldn't be a neat job and would make it a little tougher to service things later if needed.

 

My parts for the FCTA/LCA upgrade are now packed and ready to go at the reshippers in Japan. Hope to have them in a week or two. Then I'll take the front bumper off, install the sensors, put it back together, and see how much reprogramming/calibrating I'll need to have done. I expect I'll need to take it in to an ADAS shop to have the new sensors initialized and calibrated.

I also got silly and ordered a replacement drivers footwell trim cover that will hold an emergency flare(legal requirement in Japan). I didn't like the idea of an incendiary chemical flare a couple inches from my leg, so I went with a battery powered LED flare. Doubles as a flashlight and has a magnetic base so you can stick it to the car for better visibility. Even if the trim piece doesn't fit, I'll still store the flare in either the glovebox or in the cargo area with the rest of the emergency tools.

 

Different terminals. I was hoping for the same thing, but the terminals in the US 11-pin connector look like this:



While the ones for the 16-pin connector look like this:

 

22 gauge. You'd have problems with 20 gauge. I also recommend high temp TXL auto wire. You don't need the high temp properties, but the TXL sheathing is thinner and more flexible than standard wire.

 

This one's for @KMO. lol



I honestly didn't think the RHD version of the kick panel was going to fit when I ordered it, but I figured what the heck.

I hope to pull the bumper tomorrow and install the new sensors. Then maybe off to the ADAS place if needed to have them calibrated.


And I need to vacuum the car soon.

 

FCTA sensors installed and working. Still need to be calibrated to be fully functional. As soon as I started the car after the install, it told me lane change assist had errors. I took it out for a drive, activated adaptive cruise, and tried the turn signal. After a couple seconds, it gave me a message saying the function wasn't available. That all tells me the computers recognized the sensors right away and enabled the new systems, but threw errors because there's no sensor calibration in memory. Plan to take it to an ADAS place in the next day or two to have that done.

Took me under two hours from start to finish. (Jacked up car. Pulled front wheels, wheel arch trim, and front bumper cover. Installed brackets and sensors. Put everything back together.) Total cost was in the neighborhood of $400, including shipping from Japan.

Only thing I would've changed would be to give the car a good washing first(esp. the front wheel wells). The plastic clips are hard to get out if they've got grit stuck in them.

 

Welp, 4.5hrs at the ADAS place with no resolution. Turns out there's a known bug in the GTS+ software regarding the 2023-25 Prius and the FCTA/BSM sensors. It's not just my attempt to add sensors to a car that didn't come with them that's the issue. The bug also applies to the Grand Highlander and Lexus RX & TX. The GTS+ software doesn't download the config file properly, so it can't be installed to the car's ECU. Without that, the car can't do a proper calibration. I might just have to wait until Toyota fixes the software.

I broke down and ordered a Mongoose Plus so I can do the work myself now. Should get here tomorrow. Once I'm able to get the correct file, I can use the Mongoose and GTS+ to install the file and do a driving calibration. I thought the calibration needed to be performed at an ADAS place, but the software allows the tech to calibrate the sensors by just driving around. Driving along a guardrail is best and quickest, but all it needs is stuff along the side of the road/street for the radar to bounce off of. The more stuff, the quicker the calibration.