EGR Replacement Options

The alternative sticks and is a bad idea.

$99 Sticky Aftermarket

No housing number

Newer EGR Valve is 25620-37120
Egr valve updated Kit 04004-58137 includes 25620-37120 for less money. Even less ($154) from online Toyota dealers.

 

If you're determined to replace it all, I'd check out Amayama.

What's the miles? Everything is likely emminently cleanable, to like-new condition and performance. The EGR valve "may" need replacement, if an internal component has developed a groove. Which is kinda sad, considering that component is loose, but as far as I know Toyota will only sell the whole valve. For around $200 USD or more. The EGR cooler "may" need replacement, IF you're hitting the wall on cleaning it, for at least another $200. For the EGR pipe (between EGR valve and Intake Manifold), you'd have to be a monetary masochist to replace that instead of cleaning. Ditto for the Intake Manifold, also over $200, (which has EGR passages), very easy to clean.

The only thing I'd consider replacing would be the pliable gaskets at the intake manifold.

See top two links in my signature for more info. (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures)

 

Is the P0410 a typo in your post? I think you meant to type P0401.

 

I’d budget a weekend, first time.

There are preliminary steps you can take, any time in advance of the main job. In particular removing nut from lower bracket of EGR cooler (and leave off permanently). If you can back out the associated stud, you’ll subsequently not have to remove the EGR cooler’s rearmost connection studs, which expedites things and helps retain the gasket there.

If you’re not doing a coolant drain-and-fill it’s good to drain two quarts from the radiator, into a clean container, lowers coolant level below all EGR components, avoids spilling.

Leave coolant hoses connected to throttle body (when removing intake manifold), they’ve enough slack you can maneuver throttle body to be out of the way, and clean it.

Get the EGR cooler out, one end corked, and filled with a caustic solution. Strong lye solution will be most expeditious for badly clogged), Oxi-Clean enough for light carbon. The sooner the better, then soak, rinse and repeat periodically, while dealing with the rest.

See top two links in my signature (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures). Also, a workflow description here.

 

A P0401 means one of two things. It could mean the egr cooler is completely clogged or it could mean your egr valve is sticking open. The second cause can be mimicked by a bad gasket downstream of the egr valve but that is rare if no one has been in there.

Typically a totally clogged egr will cause no obvious problems. There are people here that say the cylinder temps might run hotter but the reality is egr flow at normal cruise reduces emissions. Gen2 had no egr system and achieved low emissions with a more expensive catalytic converter. Some other countries had gen3s without the egr system.

A sticking egr valve will normally cause some stumbling or roughness at engine idle. The revised Toyota egr valve helps prevent that situation.

That valve is available for $154 as noted in the attachment above.

Concerning buying parts vs cleaning; if the egr cooler is totally clogged cleaning can be difficult and time consuming. Sometimes days of futile efforts. Most have never seen a totally clogged egr cooler which means cleaning a slightly carboned up cooler was easy for them.

Removing the egr cooler and valve is a big difficult job. Do it right the first time.

I would buy a new egr cooler which I did the first time I had that code. You end up with a spare you can clean at your leisure and avoid long downtime.

I would buy the revised egr valve as well ASSUMING yours is not already the new part as shown above. Which I did when the original started sticking.