Yes, the amperage is still only 12a, so well within a good margin for even a 15a circuit. Just be sure the outlets are in good shape, if they are really worn, such as so loose you think the plug may fall out, DON'T use it! It could build enough heat to start a fire due to the increased contact resistance. If you try to use the "Quick220" device (the only way this would be safe), be sure to choose outlets that DO NOT have GFCI protection, otherwise it will not work! (The GFCI will trip instantly!)
You must mean two phases, not two circuits. Also, the power you take off the panel would need to use a set of 'ganged' 15 A breakers. They need to be side-by-side, so they would take power off the "red" and the "black" phases - check your panel. With the exception of the stove, dryer, Air-Con, perhaps electric heaters, the rest of the existing power lines in the house are wired with 14-2 wires (usually white). The max current rating is 15A on these circuits. To see how it is done for other 240V circuits check the wiring of your 240V dryer (30A) or stove circuits (40A) in the panel. Than there is also the question of the power rating of your panel ... as you can see this can get quite complex. The bottom line is this: if you spend $25-30K on the car you surely can afford the fix/upgrade described here. Moreover, based on your question I would recommend you NOT to attempt 'fiddling' around yourself. Find a friend who understands how things are done to meet local code. If you make a mistake you my be facing a mucho dollar bill and may loose the warranty on your car. Sorry to be blunt - but better be safe than sorry.
Sorry, but residential power in the US is almost always single-phase. This means there is only ONE phase in the building. It's properly referred to as single-phase 240v with a center-tapped neutral. This yields you two 120v circuits and one 240v circuit. There are a few ways you can safely derive 240v power from a typical hose without danger or needing an outlet installed: Use an existing dedicated outlet for an Electric Dryer, window A/C or stove. However, this may require an adapter to connect to the outlet type. (Typically NEMA types 10 or 14) Some houses might also be equipped with a 240v outlet in the garage for a welder. Use the "Quick220" device, which is a safe way to use two 120v outlets that are on different 120v circuits. This will safely give you up to 15 amps. You will have to locate these outlets, which will usually be in 2 different rooms, or sometimes kitchens have multiple circuits in close proximity. The indicator light on the Quick220 box will let know know when you have found the correct 2. Again, this is NOT DANGEROUS if done correctly! I am a qualified electrical engineer, but I recommend you seek the advice of a similarly qualified engineer or electrician locally if there is any doubt! Also: just FYI, we haven't had 110v or 220v in the US for a while now. It's 120v or 240v (sometimes 208v in certain situations), and it's been this way for the better part of a century!
Somewhere I read that either someone was selling theses or is planing on making them. I cant find the link now. If I find it I will post it.
Done! That's the Quick220 (should be a Quick240). This would be very expensive! I doubt seriously these will sell. There is a lot of movement right now, and DOE grant money to get more J1772 stations installed. I suspect in a few years this will be a non-issue.
Yes - and if I remember right, if you hook up your meter, or home brew (or quick 240) device onto the same phase - all that happens is "nothing" ... no 240 ... no 120 ... nothing.
Re. your statement "residential power in the US is almost always single-phase." You are right I stand corrected.
UPS should be dropping our J-1772 plug off at pEEf's place today. I wonder ... how many have been mod'ed so far?
Thanks! One someone confirms it DOES exist ... I WILL find it. . . . and here it is . and here it is actually in use ... paddle charger, to J1772 . . . . but as pEEf already said, quite pricy http://www.avconev.com/artwork/avcon-flyer-09.pdf Avcon Corporation Kind of makes me wonder how long it'll be untill the public paddle chargers are all pulled out. If it's still going to be another year or two or longer, it might just be worth it to use these, along with the pEEf mod.
Hill - I couldn't figure out what the heck you were talking about until you provided the pictures. When we speak of "paddles" in the EV world, we are talking about inductive chargers (large or small paddle). The Avcon that you are talking about we call a "claw" - mostly because we couldn't come up with a better term. And guess what? I've got your adapter right here! (Yes, I'm selling mine) - it takes the Avcon claw and converts to a 14-50 receptacle. You then plug in your 240V EVSE and you're off to the races. Avcon adapter
The upgrade project has begun, but it will be MANY years before it is completed. As it stands now, there isn't even enough money in the program to convert even a large percentage of them over to J1772. And again - this is the Avcon convert program. We are NOT converting paddle chargers yet since there are so many cars still using them :wave:
I was actually thinking of the inductive chargers. What cars use the inductive charger and what ones use the "claw"? I kind of thought all the old EVs used the inductive charger.
Currently, the only cars using the inductive paddle are the Chevy S10 EV (just like the EV1 but with truck body - designed for large paddle, but will work with the newer small paddle just as well), the Nissan Hypermini (there are a couple here still) and by far the most popular: Rav4EV. The Avcons are used for the few Ford Ranger EVs, and a untold number of conversions running around. As of right now, there are more "production" EVs using J1772 than anything else. And that basically happened overnight with the introduction of the Leaf and Volt.
And I should add that there has never been (and I have confidence that there never will be) a way to convert the inductive paddle current for use with the new cars. Just wouldn't be prudent! That's one of the beauties of conductive cars. We can convert anything to anything else with the proper connector and a length of wire (and a pilot signal, but that's easy). Cost is really the only big hurdle now. These dang connectors are crazy expensive.
Thanks for straitening me out. Seems like I knew that once upon a time. Avcon is conductive, right? Now the challenge will be to remember ... Hypermini ... wasn't that the same thing as the NEV gem?
Yup, the only inductive we had were the large and small paddles. LPI and SPI for short. The main reason they were made inductive is so they'd be natively proprietary. When you go conductive... why you can just plug into anything! but anyway... The Hypermini is WAY beyond a GEM. The GEM is literally a converted golf cart. hypermini
Keep in mind this a Avcon to J1772 adapter, not "Paddle" (Magnecharge) LPI/SPI. Avcon to J1772 is simple once you have the Avcon Inlet, the "paddle" chargers are inductive and would be crazy-expensive.