Need help! Gas engine overheating. Cannot resolve.

Thanks again @rjparker !

The video I posted originally is the video I took of my car while in maint mode. There is no note below the video saying changing water pump fixed the issue, because I have not changed it yet ... had not even thought about it until you mentioned. I recently replaced spark plug, coil on the cylinder 4 with non oem bought from Amazon. I also replaced all four fuel injectors and MAF sensor, non oem from Amazon. I just wanted to see if that'd make any difference, as previous to that I was getting P0304 and P219A.

Amazon.com: Marsram Ignition Coil Pack UF596 and Double Iridium Spark Plug 4912 Compatible with 2009-2014 Toyota Corolla Matrix 2010-2017 Prius, 2011-2016 Lexus Scion IM XD Pontiac Vibe 1.8L L4, Sets of 4, UF619 : Automotive

Amazon.com: MACAX Set of 4 Fuel Injectors 23250-37020 Replacement Compatible with Toyota Prius Plug-In V 2012-2017 Lexus CT200h 2011-2017 1.8L L4 - Replaces 842-12373 800-2323N 23209-39196 23209-39195 FJ1287

Amazon.com: Mass Air Flow Meter MAF Sensor for 09-19 Toyota 4Runner Avalon Camry Corolla Highlander,10-22 Lexus CT200H ES300H GS350 IS350 NX300H RC350,11-16 Scion IQ TC XD IM,222040V010 222040T020 HS250h : Automotive

 

Ok I guess I read your post 229 differently.

 

@rjparker :

 

I would have left it off after that stumble and only partial recovery. Couldn’t stand to watch further, did it survive?

 

Hi @Mendel Leisk I left it running in maintenance mode for around 15 minutes and turned it off only after noticing coolant boiling in reservoir and overflowing from hole underneath cap. I had also noticed high temperature light on dashboard and prior to that I measured temperature 235+ degree F. The temperature must have climbed to 245 right before I turned it off.

 

You need to replace the engine water pump. A OEM pump from a dealership is preferred.

 

You might have just burned up your motor. You should NEVER have to run it in maintenance mode
if you refill the cooling system correctly.
Obviously, you have other issues, like blockage? Back coolant pump? Fan's not working? Bad sensor?
Or wiring issues that are not allowing those things to operate correctly.

 

@ASRDogman : Thank you for pointing out the possible causes. I will investigate again to see if I can avoid replacing the engine. It has been almost 6 months that I have been spending time on this car. I think I have learned a few things, but still there are lots of unknowns. I ran it in Maint mode because somewhere I read that if I idle the hybrid car in regular mode then the hybrid battery will drain and if that happens then I will be in a big stress. I had spent 1.5 months just to rebuild the hybrid battery pack.

 

You do yourself no favors by using cheap amazon parts.

Is this the exact same symptom as before the head gasket? Did it overheat when you had the P0304 and P219A?

If it were me, I would put back in all the OEM stuff I had and start fresh, but I'm having a bit of a hard time following the history of your issue since you just dropped the info on the previous codes.

 

Clearly there is a rapid onset overheating problem, usually the water pump. We don't know if you see reservoir flow or if the radiator fans come on. Based on a lack of fan sound they are probably off. We don''t know if you have a scanner capable of advanced Toyota codes or bidirectional testing capabilities.

The overheating is priority one if it's not too late for the engine.

Video:
You have an engine with a diy hg but the repair was never satisfactorily completed. In the video it runs reasonably decent for 60 seconds with a very slight roughness so we know it's actually running, We don't know if the engine just started from cold or was already warmed up.

It suddenly stalls and automatically restarts while continously rattling the damper badly, apparently due to misfires, egr stuck open or timing.

The odd thing is it seems to run smooth when rev'd up but not when allowed to idle again. You repeated that cycle three times.

With the engine cold, I would do the egr blocking test to determine if you have a stuck egr. Egr flow is designed to be fully closed off at idle. It will cause roughness or stalling if opened a little or a lot at idle. At higher rpms the engine can take egr exhaust flow and run normally.

 

@rjparker : Great comments! Thank you again!

I don't have scanner capable of advanced Toyota codes, I used Car Scanner app. The video was taken when engine just started from cold.

I have a question: Do I start the engine normally or in maint mode when performing all the testing/checking you mentioned? From what @ASRDogman mentioned, running engine in maint mode may not be a good idea. The reason I was starting engine in maint mode was because I was afraid that hybrid battery would drain and that I would not be able to start the engine at all next time.

Also, how do I do egr blocking test? I think I may have seen a video somewhere, need to find it. What you said regarding stuck egr makes sense.

Thanks so much again!

 

@Eddie25 : Thank you for suggestions! Those codes showed up after head gasket job. Prior to that the engine was rattling with lots of noise, coolant draining, and oil was chocolate color, and too many other codes. After head gasket job, it does not look like coolant is leaking into cylinder and oil is clean. After the head gasket job and seeing those two codes, I replaced the parts I had mentioned with parts from Amazon and now there is no code at all. The only issues are overheating, engine rattling violently while idle, and coolant boiling and overflowing from hole underneath reservoir cap when temp gets too high. When I push gas, the engine sound is normal and smooth. Once I figure out the culprit/s, I will replace those parts with OEM. At this point, I am not even sure if I should invest my effort on replacing too many parts with OEM or if it is a good idea to replace the engine entirely. Sure has been very frustrating. Thank you again!

 

@Brian1954 : Thank you for suggestion. I am leaning more towards replacing with OEM water pump, thermostat, and even EGR maybe. I wish I knew exactly what the issue was so that I don't go around replacing too many unnecessary parts. I know I need to troubleshoot/test, I will do that soon as I get a chance. Thank you again!

 

I would reread this thread from where you jumped in. Perhaps take notes and create a to do list.

 

Thank you so much for posting this great video! I had seen this before, now watching again it makes much more sense! I will place “block test “ in my to do list!

 

Great idea! I think I sort of have prepared a to do list. Now I just need to make time to go through the items you suggested. Thanks so much again!

 

Hi @rjparker :
Just like you said, today I blocked EGR and started the car normally (not in Maint mode). There was still some rattling, but much better than before. The rattling still gets violent when Hybrid battery gets charged. I let the car run for around 14 minutes, also turned AC on. I paid attention to radiator fan - never saw it running even at high temps. At the end before I turned off the car, I recorded temp of 248 deg F and there was high temp light on dashboard. I then did OBD code check three times. The first time the codes were: P0304(Pending), P0101(Pending). I cleared code and scanned again: P0101 (Pending). Cleared and scanned again: P0300 (Pending), P0301 (Pending), P0304 (Pending), P0101 (Pending).

It looks like there are multiple issues: EGR valve, Water Pump, and Radiator fan. Please watch the video entirely and let me know what you think. Also what is the sound at beginning of the video and at 33 seconds. At 46 seconds, I went inside and pushed the accelerator. At 1:40 the violent rattling is because hybrid battery began charging. At 2:33, that is the separate clip.

I want to make a good decision and do the right thing. I wish I knew exactly which part to replace to fix this, not just go around replacing multiple unnecessary parts.

 

I don't think the egr block improved anything. The first loud whine might have been the water pump impeller rubbing and then it stopped. Given it overheats quickly and you don't see reservoir flow, you are back to water pump.

AC on should turn on the radiator fans anytime. They should also turn on at 200f. Something basic like a fuse or unplugged connectors must be wrong with the fans.

However the severe rattling combined with smoke out of the exhaust makes me think the hg job failed. Still leaking coolant into the cylinder based on the smoke. Or a piston connecting rod is bent.

 

Did all the items you are having issues with work before you did the head gasket?
IF they did, then something is not connected or was broken...

 

Thank you @rjparker ! I hope it is not the "HG" again. I will begin by replacing water pump, thermostat, and try to get the radiator fan going + coolant. So you do not think EGR valve need replacement? I have another question, after I replace those parts, just to test temporarily, will it be okay to use distilled water, and then later use proper coolant? The reason I am asking is because I'm tired of wasting coolant. Thanks again!