Overheating, radiator fans aren't running.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by MrSteveB, Jul 15, 2017.

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  1. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    I don't think we did. In diagnostic mode the car puts out 14.1v while it's on. However I have had the car for almost 4 years and that battery has made it through several Minnesotan winters so it's definitely been stressed. I'm not sure how to test the 12v battery other than diagnostic mode or taking the whole thing out and testing the cranking amperage at an Oreilly or something. Thoughts?
     
    #21 MrSteveB, Jul 30, 2017
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  2. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    WAY back in the beginning you made some bad assumptions ........and passed them on to us, which caused you to get some bad advice.

    At this point, I think you should replace your 12 V battery or have it tested.

    And then don't ASSume that you know what the problem is without some actual evidence of that. ;)
     
    #22 Sam Spade, Jul 30, 2017
  3. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    Going back to the OP...

    What makes you think the car (AC system, engine, or HSD) is overheating????

    If the engine were overheating, you would get a thermometer looking yellow lamp, if the HSD were overheating you would have DTCs for that and your mechanic did not report those. The actuator door code can affect operation of the HVAC system, but would not cause overheating of the AC, engine or HSD.

    From another thread, the warning lights and their descriptions:
    [​IMG]
    Brake Light Warning | PriusChat
     
    #23 05PreeUs, Jul 30, 2017
  4. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    #24 05PreeUs, Jul 30, 2017
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    there should be a diagnostic mode with the car not ready, but a test with a proper machine is the best bet.
     
    #25 bisco, Jul 30, 2017
  6. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    I understand what you're saying, but the evidence was the error code happening on the hottest days while or while the engine is being pushed. I will pull my battery this week and have it tested!!


    I had that guess because the codes would always come on when the car was under load or on the hottest days. It's happened 3 times so far and 2 of those times have been when I was going up a hill for several miles and then stopped at the top and the airflow over the radiator was cut off (when my assumption was the radiator fans weren't running).
    I'll explain the 3 times this has happened to give more clarification.
    1. I was about to go to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, AC on full blast, 88 degrees outside, and driving up a hill for around 3 miles to the gate entrance, at the entrance while talking to the ranger everything lit up and I pulled off the road and turned the car off. I had the car towed out of the park that day.
    2. A couple weeks ago in boulder, CO. AC was on pretty high and I was stuck in downtown boulder between stop lights. Drove to an Oreilly and pulled codes and nothing out of the ordinary came up.
    3. Friday after I had my AC recharged I drove home with the AC on and it made it home fine the entire drive. Turned the car off and grabbed lunch. Came out and tried to turn the car on to go to work and the dash was lit up. This is the only time it had happened after teh car had been turned off.

    Looking at your indicator light symbol chart things are pointing to ABS or maybe brake master? I have noticed just this week my brakes seem a bit soft. I wonder if my master cylinder is dying?
     
    #26 MrSteveB, Jul 30, 2017
  7. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    Any idea what our cranking amperage should be? Should it be just as much as any other car with a standard starter?
     
    #27 MrSteveB, Jul 30, 2017
  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Turtle on the mfd is the hybrid battery. Ac puts a great load on it,
    Time for a hybrid battery.
    Before u reply please search it using the search function. Hundreds of discussions on rebuilding and repairing that battery. Spend some time reading and come back informed.
     
    #28 edthefox5, Jul 30, 2017
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i don't. there should be a label on it. it's a small battery, so not likely. the testers they use are usually pass/fail i think.
     
    #29 bisco, Jul 30, 2017
  10. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    I may end up just getting a newer Prius. This car isn't worth much anymore and I may be better off selling or donating. I'll look into it though. Thanks
     
    #30 MrSteveB, Jul 30, 2017
  11. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Good plan.
     
    #31 edthefox5, Jul 30, 2017
  12. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    Um, these cars do not have a starter and the 12v battery does not start the car, only provides "wake-up power" for it. The HV battery does most everything that takes any real power in these cars; starting, AC, motive power, etc.
     
    #32 05PreeUs, Jul 30, 2017
  13. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    These cars do not have a traditional brake booster system or master cylinder. There are any number of ill-trained people working on brakes on these cars, failure to follow the OEM Shop manual can not only kill the repairing person, but even if the repairs seems ok, they can do undetected damage to the pump, control valves or other parts of the brake system.

    I have had a number of this type of brake systems apart for analysis and they are the most prone part of the vehicle to be incorrectly serviced.

    ANY abnormal behavior of the brakes is reason to either have it towed, or at the very least cautiously tendered to the nearest qualified mechanic for evaluation. There are only two "real" safety systems designed into a vehicle: Steering and Braking!
     
    #33 05PreeUs, Jul 30, 2017
  14. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    Right, that's what I meant when I was asking what the cranking amperage should be. It's gotta be something even if this battery isn't cranking. But I need to know what that is to figure if the 12v batt is dead.

    When I pulled my codes a couple days ago I got C1253 which is Hydro-Booster Pump Motor Relay Malfunction. I've been researching that one today.
     
    #34 MrSteveB, Jul 30, 2017
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Check the ABS MTR and ABS MTR 2 relays. The way to check them is to remove each relay, apply 12VDC to the relay coil terminals, and measure resistance across the relay switched terminals. If the resistance is more than 0.5 ohm (after accounting for resistance of the multimeter test leads) then replace the relays.
    2. Check the ABS1 and ABS2 fuses by measuring continuity across each fuse, do not rely solely upon visual inspection.
    3. If no issues are found with 1 or 2, and assuming no damage to the wiring harness, then the brake actuator assembly may have failed.
    4. Regarding the 12V battery, measure voltage across the battery terminals while the car is IG-OFF, after the car has rested overnight. A new AGM battery fully-charged will measure ~13.0V. A discharged battery will measure 12.0V or less. Obviously, the higher reading you get between those points, the better. See what you get. If there is any doubt about the 12V battery, replace it now.
    5. Of course the above has nothing to do with the radiator fans running or not.
    6. Get the factory repair manual info at techinfo.toyota.com to explore the troubleshooting tree for C1253.
     
    #35 Patrick Wong, Jul 31, 2017
  16. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    NO. These cars start the gas engine with the HV battery.
    The draw on the 12 V Aux battery is MUCH less than "normal".
     
    #36 Sam Spade, Jul 31, 2017
  17. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    No you don't.
    When a lead acid battery is near the end of it's life, the resting voltage will slowly drop while it is not in use.
    A simple voltage measurement often is all you need.

    P.S. You likely are wasting your time chasing trouble codes unless and until you prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that the 12 V is healthy.
    A failing 12 V can cause false failure codes to be set.
     
    #37 Sam Spade, Jul 31, 2017
  18. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    I will check the battery tomorrow morning and the relays as soon as I can. I'm looking at a 2012 Prius 4 this week to replace this car so I may not spend all that much time hunting down the issues. It may be donated or sold as is, I'm not sure yet. As always, thanks for your help. I've gained quite a lot from posts by you as I read about issues the 2nd gen has.


    Patrick told me where the 12V should be after a night of resting so I'll be measuring that tomorrow morning
    I'll post tomorrow morning with results. I'm looking at a 2012 Prius 4 this week to replace this car so if it was only the 12V I'd be really happy to fix that rather than donating or selling the car as is.
     
    #38 MrSteveB, Jul 31, 2017
  19. MrSteveB

    MrSteveB Member

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    Patrick, my battery read 12.38V this morning after being unused for about 7 hours. Not sure how poor this performance is since it is pretty close to being 12 or less. Should this battery be replaced?
    I put an offer in on a 2012 Prius 4 yesterday and the seller accepted so I will be buying that on Friday. With that said I want to get this car in running order, but it will be sold as is to the next buyer with full disclosure of the recent issues.
     
    #39 MrSteveB, Aug 1, 2017
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you have a battery charger, use it now on the 12V battery. The voltage reading isn't terrible but could be higher.
     
    #40 Patrick Wong, Aug 1, 2017
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